Success on the menu

He saunters into the restaurant with a mobile in one hand and a cigarette pack in the other. And as he covers the short distance from the...

He saunters into the restaurant with a mobile in one hand and a cigarette pack in the other. And as he covers the short distance from the door to his table, he has straightened a fork, pulled up the door-keeper and changed the music. That is Ganesh Shetty for you, whose keen eye for perfection has got him where he is today 8211; a co-partner of seven restaurants in the city.

His easy and unassuming manner could almost lead one to believe that he is laidback. But there is no mistaking the glimmer in his eyes when he starts on what is obviously his favourite subject 8211; the food business. 8220;Give good service and good food, and you cannot go wrong in this line,8221; reveals the man who entered the profession 27 years ago as a student, when he came from Bangalore to pursue higher education at Fergusson College. Today, he is someone almost every new entrant in the business flocks to for advice.

8220;Even as a student, I began working for my uncle, Jagannath Shetty, who owns Roopali and Vaishali. I started as a cashier, went on to become the manager and stayed on with him till 1983,8221; recollects Shetty. Having garnered valuable experience, he decided to branch out on his own and started Chalukya which he later gave up in Deccan with another uncle, Narayan Shetty. The next year saw him add Avishkaar recently revamped and rechristened Revival, followed by Shravan 1987, Ambar 1990, Sarangi 1993, Ganraj 1995, Tivoli in Poona Club 1996 and Sarjaa with the Mangeshkar family 1997.

8220;Almost all these restaurants are different from one another. Revival was the first vegetarian restaurant in Pune with a permit room,8221; says Shetty. 8220;Sarjaa, which is doing the best right now, has a wonderful ambience and good food, attracting the industrialist and business crowd. Ganraj has everything from fast food to South-Indian and Punjabi cuisine. But what is common to all is good service.8221; And, of course, Shetty.

Having been involved in the food business for a quarter of a century, today, Shetty is in a position to see the changes that have swept the field. 8220;When I started, the primary criterion for a restaurant to do well was the food. But today, the clients want more 8211; pleasing ambience, perfect crockery and cutlery, a suitable decor and variety, which involves constant innovation with the menu. All this requires a strict eye for detail. Which is why I have restricted myself to Pune. I receive offers to take up restaurants outside the city too, but I believe that if you cannot supervise a place regularly, you cannot handle it8221;.

Shetty thus practises a regimen that has him hopping from one of his eateries to the other throughout the day. 8220;I cover four restaurants everyday, beginning at 11 a.m. and winding up by 12.30 p.m.,8221; he adds.

And if this hectic schedule leaves him with spare hours, how does he spend them? He cooks! 8220;I enjoy experimenting with food, and was the first to introduce Vegetable Bhuna in the city, at Shravan. The other eateries followed suit,8221; he says with pride.

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The man is also much in demand for dispensing valuable advice on how to set up and run a restaurant. 8220;I like to help people and have never desisted from providing guidance to new entrants in the business, even if they are opening their place next to mine. Sometimes, I even lend my cooks during their teething period. I look at it as social service,8221; he smiles. This despite the current recessionary trends that have also hit the food business. 8220;From flourishing, we now have to contend ourselves with surviving,8221; says Shetty.

But survive he will. Given die-hard patrons like Nana Patekar, who frequents Ambar for the fish that is prepared specially to his taste. Or bigwigs like Rahul Bajaj, Bal Thackeray and Suresh Kalmadi, who can often be spotted at Sarjaa. Not to mention the general bonhomie that prevails amongst the staff at all his eateries. 8220;Very rarely does any staff member leave my place. And those who do, inevitably return. On our part, we have always accommodated them,8221; adds Shetty.

So other than his trademark service with a smile,8217; what qualities, in his opinion, are indispensable to ensure success in this business? 8220;Diplomacy and patience. I have had customers calling me up in the middle of the night to complain about the food or the service,8221; states Shetty solemnly. 8220;And once in a while, there are arguments, hot words and walk-outs. You have to keep a cool head and deal with any unpleasantness that might crop up.8221; A feat Shetty manages with characteristic ease, which is probably why he has so many Puneites eating out of his hands. Well, almost.

Sunanda Mehta

Sunanda Mehta is the Resident Editor of The Indian Express in Pune. She is a distinguished journalist, columnist, and author with over three decades of experience in the media industry. Educational background: A merit-lister in her 12 th in CBSE (5th rank in Humanities) Sunanda stood first in History in the Board for which she was awarded the Dr Tarachand Gold Medal. She is a triple-graduate with a Bachelor of Arts (History Honours) from Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, Bachelor of Education, Delhi University (on scholarship) and Bachelor of Communication and Journalism, University of Pune. Professional Background Role: As Resident Editor, she oversees the Pune edition of The Indian Express, managing local news coverage, investigative features, and editorial direction for the city. Author: She is an accomplished author, known for her biographies. Her notable books include: The Extraordinary Life and Death of Sunanda Pushkar published by Pan Macmillan (2019). The book was long-listed for the Atta Galatta award for nonfiction and Auther award for best debut author. Majestic Musings - Translation of poems from 100 year old Badshaian from Punjabi to English (2023) Behind the Big Screen- the untold stories of child actors published by Bloomsbury India (2024) Focus Areas: While Sunanda has reported on various subjects from civic to political to investigative and crime, her forte remains long-form human-interest stories, heritage and gender issues. Core Column: "Against All Odds" Sunanda curates and writes a signature series titled "Against All Odds," which profiles individuals who have overcome significant personal, medical, or professional challenges. Recent notable articles (2025) The Story of Dr. Harinder Dhaliwal (July 2025): A Pune AFMC topper who became a neurologist in Canada despite becoming paraplegic. Jayoo Patwardhan’s Cancer Journey (Jan 2025): How the National Film Award-winning designer defeated cancer. Partha Iyengar’s Emergency mid-air (Aug 2025): The story of how Gartner’s India head survived a massive heart attack during a long-haul flight. Recent Notable Articles (Late 2025) Her recent reportage continues to explore deep personal narratives and Pune’s socio-environmental landscape: 1. Personal Narratives & Closure "'I grieved for him 10 years after his murder, found closure to unsolved case'" (Dec 14, 2025): A poignant feature on Vineet Alurkar, son of the late Pune music legend Suresh Alurkar, and how digitizing his father’s collection helped him heal. "A 40-day journey home: how Christopher Benninger's partner gave him the gift of memories" (Nov 23, 2025): A moving tribute to the late acclaimed architect Christopher Benninger and his final trip to the US. "'After 38 years I finally met my biological mother'" (Sept 28, 2025): Chronicling the journey of an adopted daughter from Zurich searching for her roots in Pune. 2. Civic & Heritage "'Vetal Tekdi belongs to common citizens'" (Oct 20, 2025): An interview with environmental activist Dr. Sushma Date on the community-led protection of Pune’s vital green lungs. "'Military village' Apshinge recalls living through war days" (Aug 12, 2025): A report from a village in Maharashtra where nearly every household has a member in the armed forces, focusing on their legacy and current anxieties. 3. High-Profile Commentary & Investigations "Malegaon blast acquittals: 'I was expecting this verdict'" (July 31, 2025): An interview with former special public prosecutor Rohini Salian following the controversial acquittals. "Grounded, license cancelled... she decided to soar higher" (March 30, 2025): The story of Dr. Harpreet A De Singh, Air India’s first woman pilot from 1988, and her transition to leadership and meditation. Signature Style Sunanda Mehta is known for her empathetic storytelling. Unlike standard news reporting, her features often read like narrative non-fiction, focusing on the psychological and emotional resilience of her subjects. One of her articles in The Indian Express titled 'The Quality of Mercy' was converted into a film Rubaru Roshini produced by actor Aamir Khan. She is a strong advocate for Pune's heritage and environment, frequently using her platform to amplify citizen-led movements. X (Twitter): @sunandamehta and @ExpressPune ... Read More