STILL waters

As we drive from the Dabolim airport at Goa to Gokarna, the idyllic scenes that flow past give us an inkling of what8217;s in store. Long stretches of red soil against green, towering jackfruit-laden trees and mud huts remind you of Malgudi-like languor.

One of the first things that strikes you about Gokarna is that it is a town of contrasts. It draws the traveller looking for some quiet or a pilgrim heading for its many temples as well as the backpacker on a shoestring budget.

The town8217;s main shrine is the Mahabaleshwar temple that has a lingam reputedly rescued by Ganesha. It also finds a mention in the Shrimad Bhagwat Purana. A few years ago, it only attracted pilgrims8212;till foreign tourists from Goa, the nearest tourist beach destination, began to stray into its untouched beaches.

All of Gokarna is really one main street buzzing with vendors, fisherwomen and local people selling vegetables and temple paraphernalia. Step away from the bazaar and you are within walking distance of four of the quietest beaches in this country.

Once in the town, we headed straight for the beach isn8217;t that what8217;s expected from sea-starved city-dwellers? A 15-minute walk took us to Kudle Beach, a kilometre-long stretch of the purest blue water you can imagine. Further ahead is Om Beach8212;so called because it is shaped like the auspicious Hindu religious symbol. It8217;s by far the most popular beach here but still has enough silent spots where you can lose yourself. Stroll down the beach and you might come across a lone foreigner strumming away at his guitar or an elderly couple swinging gently in their hammocks as the sun flames into the sea.

If you want some sun, surf and tan, the place to be is the Paradise Beach, a favourite spot for sunbathing. And finally, drop by at Half Moon Beach8212;wide swathes of water, the silence of dawn and not a soul in sight. For a few moments, know what it feels to own a beach of your own.

But Gokarna is slowly warming up to luxury. A stunning three-star beach resort has come up here as have other resorts. This town could well be a quieter, greener and cheaper substitute to Goa. It has it all8212;clean, inviting sands minus the crowds, cheap accommodation options accommodation can cost you anything from Rs 100 to Rs 700 at beach shacks or resorts and the delectable local cuisine varieties of fish spiced with coconut. And if you enjoy an occasional glass of chilled wine while you watch the sun set, the local ones are worth a try. The beach side restaurants sell no-frills croissants and sandwiches. The fancier restaurants are recommended for delicacies like fresh, grilled or delicately shallow-fried fish. Vegetarian cuisine with the distinct flavours of curry leaves and coconut is also a must-try.

Among the best places to stay is the KSTDC hotel, where accommodation starts from Rs 105 per person. If you are game to rough it out, try out the beach shacks that could cost you as low as Rs 20 per day. Only, you may have to bring your sleeping bags along. The shacks on Kudle Beach, a favourite with foreign tourists, are unbelievably close to the sea.

Time to leave and I8217;m at Om beach. With a few friends by my side, I watch birds fly home as darkness slowly wove the sky and sea together. No, I didn8217;t want to go back.

How to get there
Gokana is 60 km south of Karwar and 7 hours from Mangalore city. Take a train to Gokarna Road 10 km from the town, Ankola 25 km, or Karwar 23 km. Buses from either of these railheads can take you to Gokana. It8217;s a four-hour drive from Goa airport