Embracing the right fit

Savour it,Ryan. Most VPs are forgotten before the next election.

The idea of politicians deliberating over what message their clothing conveys enchants editors. They tend to overestimate the effects of a generic blazer or give too much credit to mysterious back-room handlers. In truth,there are no real differences of style and message in the clothing of the current presidential candidates,which is too bad.

But one thing bugged me about Ryans appearance on the day of the announcement in Virginia of his vice-presidential nomination,on the symbolic deck of a battleship. He had on a blazer with an open-neck shirt and dark trousers; Romney was in his familiar shirt sleeves and a tie. Yet if Ryan was chosen to bring youth and vigour and a kind of Ayn Rand boldness to the GOP,as the commentators kept saying,then his jacket was killing it.

So much for his lethal six-pack. He was swimming in his coat,like Tom Hanks in Big when he becomes a kid again.

I asked my colleague Bruce Pask,the mens fashion editor of T: The New York Times Style Magazine,for his thoughts on Ryans sizing problem. In an email,he said: Like many American suit wearers,I think he suffers from the misconception that the size a guy wears directly correlates with his masculinity. In their minds,being a 42 is more manly than a 40. And yet what actually happens is the obvious: he looks smaller,dwarfed by shoulders that are too big,a shirt collar that is too roomy,lapels that are too wide.

Instead of boasting about his insane workout,perhaps Ryan should get a skilled tailor. Ryan could look at the last Republican presidential contender,John McCain,whose suits and blazers always fit him properly.

One thing is sure: the tightfitting ideology of politicians nowadays is reflected in their narrow clothing choices. Political correctness is also to blame for a lack of imagination and a failure to be fully adult,which,perhaps paradoxically,is to be willful and indifferent to trends or criticism.

Take Jack Kennedy. The vibrancy of his altruistic message stemmed in part from his total self-assurance,which he had in a suit or a bath towel.

This is one reason I admire Hillary Clinton. Women in politics tend to get a raw deal when it comes to their clothing and hairdos. The media has adopted the unreasonable view since the Palin debacle in 2008 that these expenditures cant be too costly or involve the routine services of a hairdresser or makeup person. Its an impossible situation,as Clinton knows. And I suspect its why she decided to let her hair grow out or wear it in a manageable bun and just get on with it.

She recently said,in effect,If I want to wear my glasses,Ill wear my glasses. She is completely comfortable in her own skin. She also,unlike the current presidential contenders,has nothing to sell.