Lucknow, Revisited

One of the institutions of the Ashok Hotel, The Durbar, which first opened in 1995, has been redesigned completely and is now known as The Oudh.

The Durbar at the Ashok Hotel gets a makeover as a restaurant serving Awadhi cuisine and even goes low-cal

One of the institutions of the Ashok Hotel, The Durbar, which first opened in 1995, has been redesigned completely and is now known as The Oudh. The rather dull ensemble of staid wood furniture has given way to a far more elaborate setup. The walls have intricate marble carvings and the tapestry is strewn with rich embroidery in silver and gold. Even the dining chairs are a royal maroon, in stark contrast to the shabbily jaded lilac-and-blue carpet. The restaurant has also brought out a new menu 8212; almost a coffee-table book in shape and content. It carries detailed descriptions of the history of Awadhi cuisine and pictures of old bungalows in Lucknow. The menu is printed in five languages 8212; English, Hindi, French, Spanish and Russian 8212; and the restaurant stacks separate menus for hosts and guests, the latter minus the prices.

Must-Try
The restaurant that previously stuck to kebab platters and Punjabi curries has taken a dramatic turn to quintessential Lucknawi food. There is a selection of Dum Pukht dishes that include prawns in a rich coconut gravy Rs 900, mutton qormas Rs 600 onwards and chicken curries. The menu also offers a list of vegan dishes that include mainly mushrooms and vegetables Rs 350 onwards. With the restaurant focusing largely on Dum Pukht, it is fitting to order Aminabad ka Pasanda Rs 500 that offers several squares of well-marinated and slow-cooked meat. We tried a delicious bowlful of Hussainabadi Ghost Rs 500. Succulent lamb shanks and potato are cooked in aromatic gravy, an instant throwback to the streetfood of Aminabad in Lucknow, home to the famous tunde kebabs. The biryani is another worthy entreacute;e. The dum-cooked rice is flavoured with saffron and the morsels of lamb are tender. Among the desserts, Shahi Tukre Rs 175 can be ordered with health ingredients that include brown bread and stevia, a sugar-free herb.

Give a Miss
Most of the dishes are slow-cooked in typical Awadhi style. It is not a cuisine for weight-watchers, and so The Oudh has come up with olive naans and low-cal curries. However, Awadhi food, made with substitute non-greasy ingredients, can never taste as good as the real thing.

Meal for two: Rs 2,000
Contact: 26110101
Location: The Ashok Hotel