Hills are alive

The charming hill town is in full bloom in May, with apple blossoms and flowering cherry trees everywhere. The temperature hovers around 20 degrees.

If you8217;re looking to soak in the spectacular beauty of the Himalayas and be far away from traffic and noise, there8217;s no better place to stay than the HPTDC Log Huts Rs 4,000 onwards per night. Perched right on top of Manali, the wooden huts 8212; red roofs matted with ivy8212; offer splendid views. However, in typical government style, they can be a bit musty, and the only food you8217;ll get here is dhaba-style chicken curry and other Indian food. But they have kitchens for people who8217;d like to rustle up their own meals.

It8217;s a good idea to choose a hotel with a view of the Beas.

You could check in at Snowcrest Manor or Apple Country, both a stone8217;s throw away from the Log Huts. Rates vary from Rs 3,000 to 6,000 in season time per night. A five-minute walk from these three hotels takes you to spots of complete wilderness.

Other quaint options: Negi8217;s Wildflower Hall, nestled in a pine forest and Sunshine Guesthouse, a crumbling, old mansion that was bequeathed to a cook by his British saab.

Parking and driving in Manali is an absolute nightmare in the summer months; the most efficient way to get around are autorickshaws. If possible, don8217;t venture anywhere near the Manali Bazaar in your car; you could actually get caught in a traffic jam which makes the Delhi-Gurgaon highway seem desolate. In a rickshaw, you have the option of getting out and walking. Also, there8217;s a peaceful walk to the market through the pine forest that costs Rs 5. No better place to be in when the afternoon sun is blazing down.

Since Manali plays host to lakhs of foreign tourists, over the years, it has developed an interesting palate, and a unique sub8211;culture. Manali Gaon, where the foreigners stay, is a small stretch on a hill, lined with quaint cafes and little shops selling jewellery and hippie clothes.

There8217;s a tattoo studio, a little German bakery, and a bunch of restaurants that serve surprisingly good food. Manalsu, a cafeacute; overlooking the Beas, makes a decent trout curry. Olive, 100 metres ahead, makes amazing lasagna and serves a variety of Tibetan food.

The most original restaurant however, is Hung Cafeacute;, a tiny loft in the interiors of the Gaon that serves Korean food. Started by two enterprising Koreans, you have to walk past paddy fields and old-style Himachali houses with corn drying on the roofs to get there. Situated in a tiny space in an ancient house, it plays good music and has rocking chairs to chill in. Having Korean style sushi and a variety of kimchee there is almost surreal.

While in Manali, a must-visit restaurant has got to be Il Forno 8212; a rustic, stone-and-wood structure on the road leading to the famous Hadimba temple. Run by a crusty Italian who takes her time with the food, it has a terrific view of the city below, particularly at night. Il Forno8217;s fan club includes former Prime Minister Atal Behari Vajpayee, who visits Manali every year. No surprise, then, that this restaurant is on every tourist8217;s itinerary.

Then there8217;s the pricey Johnson8217;s Cafeacute; near the market, which has great food, but no view. If you8217;re looking to chill out in a bar in the evening, check out Fall Out, a popular place at Banon Resorts. There8217;s also Alchemy near Prini, on route to Naggar. Run by a Britisher, Allan, it has a huge TV 8211; one reason why it8217;s popular with foreigners who want to catch up with the soccer scene back home.

You can do the usual touristy stuff like drive to Naggar an hour away, or to Rohtang Pass. However, unless you set out at 7 a.m, be prepared to battle serious traffic, big city style.

At the end of the day, Manali is the only holiday destination in India apart from Goa that has a distinct international feel to it. So pack your bags and take a hike to the hills.