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Haunted by the Maldives

Waiter, there's a maldive in my salad!quot; Thus has many a hungry vegetarian in Sri Lanka expressed anguish that even the one can-eat i...

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Waiter, there8217;s a maldive in my salad!quot; Thus has many a hungry vegetarian in Sri Lanka expressed anguish that even the one can-eat item on the menu has been spiked beyond edibility. For those of you wondering how a salad can be rendered inedible to a vegetarian by a tourist destination, Maldives is tuna processed to look like a dried stick and available in every grocery here worth its salt.

Sri Lanka probably developed a taste for it when the king of Maldives sent boat-loads of it as part of his annual tribute to the British governor in Colombo. Later, the Sri Lankans began buying it from the Maldives except for a very brief period during the socialist Seventies, when it was categorised as a luxury and its import banned.

Maldive fish has now acquired the same status in Sri Lankan cuisine as a spice. That makes it enemy number-one for us veges. Chicken, fish, meat are obvious by their appearance, but this little rascal, this maldive, it tries to deceive us by looking like an innocent little piece ofcinnamon or nutmeg. It hides under shreds of coconut or between the delicious gothukola salad leaves pretending it8217;s not there, but we who are trained by experience always manage to hunt it down: in salads, in tender jackfruit curry, in brinjal curry, in sweet onion chutney and, much to our grief, in that last bastion of all herbivores, daal.

Unfortunately for us, maldives is the most vital ingredient in all vegetable dishes because Sri Lankans believe that to be the only way to uplift and embellish what are otherwise considered tasteless foods.

In fact, vegetarianism itself is as far removed from Sri Lankans as beef from the Buddha. True, there is a vegetarian society here whose members will interpret Buddha8217;s doctrine of ahimsa to include food habits. But they are swimming against a strong current of carnivorous tendencies and their influence is restricted to the letters column of newspapers.

Strange as it may sound, to the people who consider themselves the true protectors of theBuddhist faith vegetarianism is an exotic way of life, perhaps an ideal, but impractical. The day begins here with a hefty breakfast of string hoppers steamed vermicelli with a choice of non-vegetarian curries from fish to beef. Only after thus fortifying themselves can Sri Lankans properly set about their business for the day. Other meals are similar, with quot;stringsquot; substituted by rice for lunch and bread for dinner.

Much to the dismay and disappointment of the handful of Sri Lanka8217;s vegetarians, even monks, who are supposed to be the living embodiment of the Buddha and set an example by their strict adherence to dhamma or the teachings of Gautama, show a marked preference for non-vegetarian alms at daana ceremonies. Some are even known to specify beforehand to the pious alms-giver their preference for particular types of meat or fish to avoid disappointment at the last minute.

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All this is rather restricting for vegetarians. When invited to a home for a meal it becomes necessary, like themonks, to specify your food preference beforehand. As that might be the only vegetarian dish your hosts are planning, they might even ask for your preference of vegetable. Shamelessly monk-like, my favourite demands are tomato curry, drumstick-in-coconut milk-curry and tender jackfruit curry. Just to ensure 100 per cent you don8217;t go hungry, safest to add that punchline: quot;No maldives, please.quot;

While on the road travelling in Sri Lanka, I have discovered that it8217;s pointless to go into a restaurant and look at a menu. Far more satisfying to stop at a waterfall or a sandy cove and bring out those nicely packed idlis and thairshaadam aka curd rice.

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