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This is an archive article published on July 17, 1998

A designer business

The fashion business, like all other business in India, has in the last 10 years, catapulted this country straight onto the competitive p...

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The fashion business, like all other business in India, has in the last 10 years, catapulted this country straight onto the competitive platform of an international market. While large export houses boast of mass production of garments in their factories for consumers abroad, designers, senior or junior of exclusive, hi-fashion clothes, are busy presenting line after line of chic quot;creationsquot; 8212; the likes of which no one has ever worn before, and some never after.

Major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore and Calcutta, are witnessing glitzy shows with slinky models in whacky outfits careening down the catwalks with incredible zest and perfect professionalism 8212; leaving the urban elite completely bowled over. Fascinated or fazed out, these privilegedmembers of society, usually stagger out in breathless wonder, having earlier imbibed the latest in spirits from Shaw Wallace, Smirnoff, Teachers, Jamp;B, Black Label or whoever has been elected to host these glamorous evenings.As each designer endeavours to capturethe attention, and hopefully the imagination and interest, of the viewers with his or her latest and presumably original fashion statement8217;, critics, journalists and buyers sum up8217; the clothes and publish their reviews or comments with a flourish; while MTV, Zee TV, Star TV, BBC or Doordarshan, quickly relay the event, through their cable network, across the length and breadth of this huge sub-continent, as well as other continents. This coverage does wonders, naturally, for the designer8217;s ego, while explaining meticulously the designer8217;s inspiration, skill and execution of the hi-fashion garments!Later, the collection is usually classified into either Ethnic8217; or Western8217; wear, after which it is further categorised and declared very wearable8217;, very affordable8217; or suitable for the ramp only8217;. The last category is always quite ambiguous and leaves most people wondering will it hang indefinitely on the mannequins or will it be relegated to the last rack at the back of the boutique until some daringcustomer pulls it out, pays for it, and walks out into the sunlit street side wearing it! Perhaps this is the true launch of that garment. Therefore, while these fashion statements8217; along with their hype have caused a great deal of excitement, they have also brought about a great deal of confusion!

Quite understandably, this results in numerous queries and the establishment of varied assumptions! But the questions that are never really answered, could go as follows: Who are the fashion gurus and pundits? Who are the trend setters and innovators? What is this so called structured8217; garment and what is this much sought after classic8217; look? Furthermore, should one be celestial8217; or sensuous8217;? Should one be ethereal8217; or accidental8217; or just enjoy being coquettish? If the cut is simple and the contours are flattering for the figure is one considered chic or merely sexy, but outdated? And what are all these exciting silhouettes8217; that are always so reverently and repeatedly referred to in every weeklyreview or monthly supplement on the latest offerings at the altar of Fashion Deities? And what about the variety of effects that can be produced, for eg, there8217;s the layered effect, with flounces and frills or the stiff but elegant panelled effect. Then we have the flowing gowns, and also the mini and midi looks of the 8217;70s. And we cannot ignore the de-constructed8217; or the well-constructed8217; or un-structured8217; appearance now valid! Or, the costumed historic8217; look!

What then does the designer label express and what exactly is haute couture in the Indian contest? And how does it fit into the backdrop of the time-honoured traditional Indian culture? For isn8217;t culture something which one is born into, and out of which emerge custom, tradition, social norms and behaviour, as well as, food habits and the dress code? Just as every country has its traditional way of dressing, it also has its special food habits and methods of cooking and eating those foods.

Designer Arjun Khanna leaves you with thattantalising tidbit to chew on till next month when he looks at fashion8217;s tie-up with food

 

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