‘It’s a great time to re-incorporate our heritage into the conversation via food’: Chef Ranveer Brar on his culinary philosophy

The chef, who started out by frying succulent kebabs in the bylanes of Lucknow, talks about his cooking philosophy, how sustainability rules his culinary practices, his upcoming projects, and more. Excerpts:

Q. Tell us more about your culinary journey and what inspired you to become a chef.

Ranveer Brar: My culinary education began with Munir Ustad — a kebab vendor on the streets of Lucknow. Formal education happened much later, at IHM Lucknow, post which I joined the Taj group in Delhi. From being the youngest executive chef in the country to my sojourn to Boston and return to Mumbai, it has actually been a homecoming of sorts, having learnt priceless lessons en route!

I joined the Accor group as an executive chef at Novotel. Television happened soon after, which enabled me to reach out to a larger audience and share my food stories with them. Opening of restaurants and menu curation continued, some in India, some overseas and on the seas too — literally — as I was associated with curating the Indian menu for the Royal Caribbean’s cruise liner.

As an artist in and out of the kitchen, I constantly look for mediums of expression, acting being another one.

 

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Q. Is there any culinary trend that you find to be particularly exciting?

Ranveer Brar: Home meals are definitely gaining more ground as we speak. In a way, the lockdown helped us appreciate what is really close to our culinary DNA. People are beginning to identify with and look for food trends that help them reconnect with memories and the stories they grew up with.

I also believe that culture and cuisine always go hand in hand. Unless one understands and appreciates the culture of a place, it would be difficult to appreciate its cuisine. Now, with the acknowledgment of home and local food on the rise, it is a great time to re-incorporate our cultural heritage into the conversation via food.

Q. How do you stay inspired and innovative in an ever-evolving culinary landscape?

Ranveer Brar: When you fall in love with something as diverse and evolutionary as food, life just flows. I let food inspire me through ingredients, dishes, stories and the people associated with them. In fact, these are the best parts of my culinary journey — the people I meet, stories I hear, dishes and ingredients I learn about. These then inspire what I create.

 

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Q. What key elements define your cooking style and philosophy?

Ranveer Brar: ‘When you are looking, you are not cooking’ is integral to my cooking style. My style is mostly experiential — close to roots and inspired by my travels and the stories I hear around food.

Q. How do you incorporate sustainability in your culinary practice?

Ranveer Brar: It has been my constant endeavour to keep bringing millets and our other native grains into conversations and cuisines. To take this effort further, I started a campaign of sorts called the ‘Indian Grains Month’ a couple years ago. The idea was to encourage people to not just use indigenous grains more, and beyond vrat food, but to also think outside the box with interesting recipes and popularise their use in day-to-day meals.

Additionally, I consciously incorporate local ingredients and what is in season. ‘Farm to table’ and eating seasonal ingredients are concepts I grew up with. My childhood was mostly spent in my grandmother’s kitchen, watching her make the most of ingredients and tackle food waste at every level. We had a healthy environment then, and I strongly advocate bringing it back in any way, shape or form I can. When you eat what is in season and what grows around you, it not only benefits your health but also supports local farmers and vegetable vendors, thereby contributing to a mutually beneficial ecosystem.

 

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Q. Could you share a memorable experience or challenge you have faced in your career?

Ranveer Brar: Several come to mind. During my travels — both personal and for shows — I have met people from different walks of life who view or work with food in their own refreshing ways. For instance, there was this lady in Khejarli village in Rajasthan who cooked up a feast for us with just a few rustic ingredients. I also recall a lunch with a local family in Turtuk (Ladakh) — famous for its Balti cuisine — which turned out to be one of the most memorable meals I have had in my life. The list is endless.

With respect to challenges, I view them as lessons for the next stage in my life. One of the biggest challenges was bouncing back from my restaurant in Boston shutting down. Lessons were learnt and I have not looked back since.

Q. What advice would you give to aspiring chefs looking to make a mark in the culinary world?

Ranveer Brar: Three rules — get the basics right, stick to the genre of food that you feel most connected with, and persevere with patience and focus.

Q. Any upcoming projects or collaborations that your fans can look forward to?

Ranveer Brar: After wrapping up a fun schedule of the Family Table, there are a couple more projects in the pipeline. Plus my new baby, Kashkan restaurant in Dubai, keeps me busy.