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This is an archive article published on May 18, 2023

‘My prêt collection celebrates diversity and the power of unity’, says Mayyur Girotra ahead of kickstarting New York Pride 2023

"My design process is ever evolving and constantly switched on. I have the ability to pivot and adapt," Mayyur Girotra, a celebrated couturier, said

Mayyur Girotra, New York Pride WeekAs a brand we believe in pushing boundaries and we have done this from the start, Mayyur Girotra said. (Photo: PR handout)

Mayyur Girotra will kickstart the New York Pride 2023 on June 2 with his first luxury prêt collection. Titled ‘Aikya’, the couturier said that his latest creation reflects his idea of fashion — which is inclusive and can be a “unifying force that brings people together, regardless of their differences”. Feeling proud and fortunate in equal measure, the fashion designer, whose designs have been worn by many Bollywood celebrities, is all set to showcase his talent in support of the LGBTQ+ community at Āve – Soho NYC.

Ahead of the event, we got a chance to interact with Mayyur Girotra, who took us through his all-encompassing design process, his latest collection and how it represents the community, sustainability, bridal couture, and also (secretly) names the one celebrity he feels carries off his designs the best. Read the edited excerpts below:

How did the opportunity to kickstart New York Pride 2023 come about?

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We are collaborating with Pride at Google and Indus Google Network, and it has been an extremely comfortable yet exciting journey with them. They gave me the freedom to play around with the collection and translate the designs into a beautiful language — the way I had envisioned it. They have been extremely kind and helpful with executing the entire process and I am fortunate that I have been given the chance to showcase my talent in support of my LGBTQ+ community.

Tell us about ‘Aikya’, and how different is it from your previous collections. What does the collection name mean?

Aikya, which means unity, is my first luxury prêt collection. It celebrates diversity and the power of unity, which is more important now than ever before. Aikya is a reflection of my belief that fashion can be a unifying force that brings people together, regardless of their differences. Each piece in the collection has been meticulously crafted to celebrate the unique beauty of different cultures and styles. We’ve curated a wide range of silhouettes, right from trenchcoats to bombers and oversized jackets to name a few. I, along with my team, have made sure that the collection is gender-fluid — from intricate embroidery to bold prints and vibrant colours, amalgamating the East and the West with our unique touch, creating silhouettes which commemorate fashion and pride.

How exactly does the collection represent the LGBTQIA+ community worldwide?

Just like how the colours of the rainbow stand united, the same way my designs do for the community. The rainbow is a very beautiful natural phenomenon, and so is every single person in our community. ‘Aikya’ is dedicated to the LGBTQIA+ community and it is an honour for me to be opening for the pride month in New York. ‘All Love’ is venerated by my designs, which the community is free to express and wear, regardless of their gender, orientation or identity. The designs highlight the uniqueness of each individual who wears them. I am lucky to have the freedom to express myself creatively and want to pay homage to all the brave individuals who have fought for the freedoms that the community has today.

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Why do you say the collection “pushed you out of your comfort zone”?

As a brand, we believe in pushing boundaries; something we have done from the start. This collection is an amalgamation of the East and the West with our unique touch, creating a fusion of traditional Indian elements with modern styles and silhouettes. We have used Indian embroidery techniques like zardozi and bandhani on western-style dresses, jackets, and skirts that create a unique fusion look which appeals to both Indian and global audiences. Incorporating traditional Indian crafts and textiles into designs while appealing to a global audience requires a creative and thoughtful approach that balances tradition with modernity, authenticity with innovation, and cultural significance with commercial viability.

Who will be modelling the creations?

​Since the theme of the show is celebrating love in all its forms, the models we’ve chosen are those who are part of the community and those who love the community.

Many Bollywood celebrities have also donned your creations in the past; who do you think carries them best?

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I have dressed many leading Bollywood celebrities. I really can’t choose one as they are all very stylish and stunning, and each creation of mine is equally precious to me. But if I really have to pick one, then Karisma Kapoor; she looks impeccably stylish in all my looks. Also, Tabu and Sridevi are also eternally gorgeous.

 

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A post shared by Mayyur Girotra (@mayyurgirotra)

You are known for your bridal couture — which has undergone a makeover in the last few years. How have you altered your design sensibilities/aesthetics to keep up with the changes?

Mayyur Girotra Couture has always been known for its vibrant colours and embroideries. As a designer, I believe I need to have a very strong design language to create unique pieces. Since the very inception of the brand, I have personally worked very hard on each collection. I like to push myself, gain a new perspective, and try different techniques. I am always adding different elements, and style concepts to deliver new silhouettes and art forms to my clients

As such, how essential, according to you, is it for designers to adapt to the changing times and customer preferences to stay relevant?

My design process is ever-evolving and constantly switched on. I have the ability to pivot and adapt, which saw us through the pandemic. I take inspiration from everything beautiful around me, however large or small it may appear to the human eye. I bring together designs and embroideries that are very different from their predecessors, but have my signature style, which is opulent yet classic.

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Our luxury pret line takes this one step further, incorporating traditional Indian crafts and textiles into designs while appealing to a global audience requires a creative and thoughtful approach that balances tradition with modernity, authenticity with innovation, and cultural significance with commercial viability. The brand is set up for expansion worldwide and our online presence has made us accessible to all.

Sustainably is a buzzword in the fashion industry at the moment — what is your take on the same?

I believe in slow fashion and love reviving crafts and giving back craftsmen and women their power to create. I like to give a new vision to classics by reviving crafts with a contemporary lens, which celebrates our heritage and acknowledges the lands that many Indians have integrated and migrated to. We do a lot of bandhani, mulmul and batik printing from Jaipur, supporting local weavers and craftspeople. We source a lot of Kanjivaram silks and Gadwal silks from the south. We also work very closely with weavers from Varanasi and Banaras and use Banarasi fabrics like Jakarta and Indian embroidery techniques like zardozi, phulkari and bandhani.

What trends do you anticipate to make it big this year?

Minimal chic, fun colours, street style meets couture and not-too-serious glam will be big this season.

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Shweta Sharma leads the lifestyle section at IndianExpress.com. Over the years, she has written about culture, music, art, books, health, fashion, and food. She can be reached at shweta.sharma@indianexpress.com. ... Read More


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