For long, designers Shantnu and Nikhil Mehra have swum against the tide of classicism and ceremonial lustre that define Indian couture by going 'anti-trend'. Long before androgynous fashion became acceptable, the designer duo had introduced the drape kurta for men on the runway in 2014, contemporising upper body drapes and throws that men across India have donned casually across millennia. Though known more for their menswear, the two are now lending edginess to women’s couture with sharp silhouettes and drape skirts that have debuted at the Moscow Fashion Week. “We have long championed bridal couture for women, redefining the bride with structure, drapery and a contemporary edge. What we felt was missing was a larger narrative for her beyond the wedding,” say the designers who are going all out with womenswear for the first time. Excerpts: Although you have dressed up women on the ramp and done bridal/cocktail creations, what took both of you so long to expand the range of womenswear? This was never about creating just another womenswear line, it was about building a red-carpet couture identity that felt global in representation and equally true to our ethos. With our debut womenswear collection, Armouré, we wanted to give the same bride, and every modern woman, more options in statement gowns and dresses. The silhouettes are Western in their form, global in their approach and yet unmistakably rooted in our traditions. Both of us took time to decide on a lookbook because we wanted womenswear to feel considered and distinct, not an extension of what we already do. This showcase at Moscow Fashion Week marks that moment for us; the arrival of a bold new language for women, crafted with the paradox we love to celebrate: sensual yet armoured, intimate yet resistant. This collection has a lot to do with bold metallics. Which category of women are you targeting? The collection draws from the sensuality of the 1930s, but it is not nostalgic; it is forward-looking, reinterpreted for today’s woman. The silhouettes move between sculptural architecture and draped ease, adorned with crystals, pearls, metallic brocades, and embellishments that feel like armour rather than ornament. The woman of Armouré is multifaceted: she is fierce, she is romantic, she is defiant, she is intimate. She thrives at the intersection of rebellion and romance, and she commands attention on her own terms. Our target is not defined by age or geography but by attitude; the red-carpet siren in New York, the cultural tastemaker in Moscow, or the modern Indian woman who refuses to be confined by tradition. She is for every woman who sees fashion as her language of power. From curated shop windows at brand outlets to now wholly-owned designer stores in the West and celebrity endorsements. is Indian fashion finally coming of age internationally? What we are witnessing is not Indian fashion “coming of age,” but Indian fashion coming into its own. This is a moment where Indian couture proves it can be disruptive on a global stage while remaining firmly rooted in craft and identity. What India offers the world is a story unlike any other; a rare ability to blend heritage with sartorial modernity. It is this duality, of preserving centuries of craftsmanship while expressing it through a contemporary couture lens, that makes our voice distinctive and impossible to ignore. To what extent do showcases at Western fashion weeks help us to grow our markets? Is it more a statement than business? Fashion weeks in the West are not only showcases of design but stages of influence. They serve as strategic marketing platforms that open new avenues internationally while amplifying aspiration in India, where the West continues to echo as a strong cultural point of view. For us, the value lies in presence and positioning. It is about placing Indian couture on the right stages, engaging with a global audience and allowing our narrative to travel beyond borders. These moments build equity that is cultural as much as commercial, ensuring that couture from India is part of the global conversation. Are you planning a designer store abroad? Never say never. Our global footprint will only strengthen and the world is our oyster. Expansion for us doesn’t necessarily begin with a flagship store. It can take form through test-presence, collaborations, curated pop-ups or international showcases. When the time comes, a store abroad will be our cultural outpost. You are also working towards building India’s first designer Maison; a certified house of luxury brands…. Yes. Each vertical is aimed at creating a complete ecosystem of modern Indian luxury. Shantnu Nikhil Couture will be the anchor of the Maison with ceremonial couture that challenges conventions. S&N by Shantnu Nikhil is about luxury pret, making them part of everyday cultural dressing. SNCC represents our signature sport-inspired ready-to-wear brand. Now we have womenswear. We will continue to be defiant.
