When the curtains came down on the finale show of the Aamby Valley India Bridal Fashion Week (AVIBFW) in mid-September,it left the crowd spellbound,especially with the acrobats,a swirling dervish and a belly dancer adding to the drama quotient. Yet at the same time,those who follow fashion closely couldnt help but notice that couturier JJ Valayas line evoked a strong sense of déjà vu. One could trace this to the fact that this Turkey-inspired Azrak line,although with a few changes,had been shown by the designer much earlier in the year at the Wills India Fashion Week (WIFW) finale,and also at the Delhi Couture Week that took place in August.
In an industry where new events and shows keep cropping up,it is becoming increasingly clear that high-end fashion,presented with much grandeur,takes precedence over everything else,even if it entails the same creations being shown again. Another recent instance that hints at this is the Manish Arora show at the couture week where the designer admitted that his was,in fact,a prêt line and a retrospective. This,in turn,gave him the license to showcase some stunning,albeit old creations,from his previous shows at the Paris Fashion Week,going back right up to Spring Summer 2008 line. Most of these ensembles have never been shown in India before. Not everyones been to my Paris shows and this was a good time for me to showcase what I do back in Paris, said the designer to this newspaper at the time of the couture show.
Valaya,on his part,has a ready explanation too; he points out that WIFW Autumn/Winter 2012 being a ready to wear week,he showed a prêt collection for the grand finale while Delhi Couture Week was all about couture. But he does concede that both lines had the same inspiration and several common ensembles too. A designer works on a single line of ensembles for a particular season,for both pret and couture which best showcase the ethos of his brand. Therefore,the ensembles would majorly remain the same with slight tweaking for different shows, he says.
Meanwhile,the organisers are hardly complaining. Sunil Sethi of Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI),which organises WIFW and the couture week in Delhi,emphasises that Valayas lines at WIFW A/W 12 and the couture week were similar,but not the same. Manish (Arora) is the only designer at the couture week to have showcased a line comprising garments that have been seen before. His case was an exception as he hadnt shown in India for a long time, Sethi insists.
Then there are others,who feel that theres nothing wrong with some amount of overlap as long as the designer is a big draw and the audience/ market for his/ her collection is new. Vijay Singh of Fashion One International that put together AVIBFW 2012 belongs to this category. At our event,Valaya just took the Azrak story forward; it may not have been an entirely new collection but there were several additions. In the end,it doesnt matter much because he was showing this line in Mumbai for the first time and the market here is different from that in Delhi, Singh notes,adding that next years two city editions of the bridal week will have some designers showing the same collection in Delhi and Mumbai. We are absolutely okay with such repetition as it will open up more avenues, he asserts.
Designer Narendra Kumar Ahmed believes that this phenomenon of repeating outfits in a show stems from the fact that designers today take on many shows. Its physically impossible and financially not feasible to come up with an entirely new collection for every fashion show,especially if its a bridal or couture line. It takes up a lot of time,energy and manpower, he says. Sethi,however,makes it a point to send out a word of caution against repeating outfits. At FDCI events,designers dont repeat their creations,simply because they cant afford to do it this is the main hub of their business and previously shown collections wont cut it with the buyers, he ends.