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Fresh off the Boat

Get a feel of Southern backwaters in the middle of Delhi’s Vasant Kunj.

Spelling Sambar with a Z may sound new-age,but the South Indian restaurant,Zambar at Ambience Mall,Vasant Kunj,is every bit traditional in its approach to décor and food. Even the main dining area is housed within a traditional thatched-roof wooden boat. And the Seafood Thali on offer at the Sea Food Festival (on till December 11) smells and tastes of the backwaters of Kerala,Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. The menu is several pages long,but the attentive staff is helpful with suggestions.

We give the Crab Pepper Fry a miss in favour of the SeaFood Thali,which has a greater variety and smaller portions. Served with steaming rice and appams,the Meen Varuthathu (fish fry) is crisp and flavoured with fresh peppercorns. While the Malvani Prawns,dunked in coconut gravy,are a bit sweetish,the winner on the thali is the juicy Peethala Iguru (crab preparation from Andhra Pradesh). Its succulent meat is infused with roasted masala and tangy tamarind,and topped with fresh coriander leaves.

The Meen Kozhamu (village-style fish curry from Tamil Nadu) also has a rich red,spicy-tangy gravy that goes well with the appam. One could not be blamed for ignoring the Thoran (stir-fried green vegetables with coconut garnish) since the focus is clearly on the meat dishes. Rasam and papad with assorted mouth-watering pickles completes the dish. All this at Rs 625 (plus tax).

From the main menu,we try the Non-Veg Sampler. Consisting of tasting portions of chicken prepared in four different ways,it is a good way to start a meal since it awakens the taste buds without filling up the tummy.

The Chicken 65 is the hero of this dish — a deep-fried bar snack that pairs perfectly with a cold glass of beer or,for teetotalers,a tall glass of buttermilk.

The Chicken Ghee is also delicious as are the Kumbli Pepper and Chicken Ularthiyathu,a sauteed stir-fry Kerala style dish. This platter comes at Rs 425.

The Mutton Kurumulaku (Rs 325) is lamb cooked with onion,tomato and fennel seeds,and topped with curry leaves,is the only letdown. While the spices are well browned and flavourful,the meat is not as tender as promised.

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Meal for two: approx Rs 2,200 Ambience Mall,3rd Floor,DLF Phase 3,NH8,Gurgaon,Contact: 49422222 (ext 252)

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