Fasting & feasting

Perched atop a makeshift platform,Mohd Salim is the proud stockist of,in his own words,“The choicest halwa,parantha and malpua in Camp.” He says his work begins at 8 in the morning. “We prepare everything right here,in our makeshift kitchen,” Salim says,pointing to a charred space next to his stall,which serves as his chulha during the holy month of fasting. “Although business has been down this year,this is still the best time of the year for us; Ramzan is when we make the most profits,” he adds with a gap-toothed smile,while garnishing the halwa with cherries and khopra.

While traditionally,Mominpura,Babajan Chowk,Poona College and Sharbatwala Chowk have been iftar hubs,the culture of community fasting and feasting extends far beyond. And the array of items which make up the iftar platter is as varied as it is delicious. From the choicest dates,in such varieties as farhad,ajwaa,kalmi,reshma and shireen; the brilliant,inviting colours of the sewai (dazzling pink,bright orange,pale white,burnt ochre and muted yellow) and the delightful concoction called falooda (which,again,is a rainbow of colours and ingredients),the choice is tempting and mottled.

Jawed Bagwan is a wholesaler of dates and says he stocks the best dates sourced from Saudi Arabia and Iran. “You can get best quality dates available in the world right here,all priced between Rs 50 and Rs 250 per kg. The varieties most in demand are kalmi,reshma and shireen,” says Bagwan. “All sewai varieties here are priced between Rs 40 and 80 per kg. Most people,though,prefer the Benaras sewai as it is truly the best,” informs Akbar Khan,owner of Zulfi Dry Fruits,seated amidst mounds of pink,white,yellow,orange and ochre sewai and stacks of high-in-energy dry fruits.

Among all the sweetmeats and snacks,the favourites of many are melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and inimitable biryanis. As Irfan Sheikh of Kwality Caterers puts it,“While chicken,mutton and beef biryani are always in demand,the most preferred items are dalcha,khichda and chicken tandoori. While dalcha is basically mutton cooked with chana dal and flavoured with ginger-garlic paste,khichda is a combination of five-six varieties of dal and mutton.” In addition,he says,the evergreen chicken tandoori,green chicken,shaami kebab,nargis kebab and angarey gravy are much in demand.