Who’s John Dory?

A coastal city,Mumbai has witnessed a range of imported and Indian fish make their way onto the plates of its diners. The Vietnamese basa and the Chilean seabass are two examples of the variety that is now popular as main course filets and appetiser kebabs across the city’s dining scene. Native to the coast of Australia,Africa,Europe and Japan and available in India only since the last five years,John Dory is emerging as a favourite among Mumbai’s diners. “Earlier,John Dory was only used in Japanese cuisine,” says Chef Nachiket Shetye of 36 Oak & Barley,Kemp’s Corner,adding,“The popular basa absorbs flavours of ingredients that it is prepared with. But John Dory has its own,unique flavour.”

With a crispy texture on the skin side,and moist inside,the filet can be similar to a pomfret or rawas,without the fishy smell. Chefs also claim that it is hard to over cook,making it perfect to work with during their busy service hours.

So,the chefs at 36 Oak & Barley pan sear the fish before “finishing it off in the oven” and serve it with spring onions and capers. At Smoke House Deli,Lower Parel,it comes crusted in chilly with citrus and thyme voloute. At Bandra’s Mangiamo,a peppered variant is served as a starter,even at banquets and private parties. At the newly-opened Otto Infinito,it’s rubbed with coriander,cumin and turmeric and served with garlic mash and asparagus cream. “John Dory does have the potential to be an important part of the imported fish portfolio in India,” says Jeetesh Kaprani,VP – Operations of KA Hospitality. “It is a coastal fish that lends itself beautifully to a variety of flavours. In addition,it can be imported fresh all year round,” he adds.

But even as Indians develop a taste for the fish,it may never be as popular as other imports,such as the basa or seabass. “Very few people know how to prepare it. Also,it’s not consistent in availability and is expensive,” he says.

But the higher price point — Rs 600-750 per kilo — isn’t the factor deterring its popularity over other varieties that are available at Rs 160-200 per kilo. “John Dory is great to eat when it’s fresh,but not so much when it’s frozen,” says Farrokh Khambata of Amadeus,Nariman Point,who prefers using Seabass and Cod. “The freezing process,somehow,changes its texture and flavour,” adds Khambata,who doesn’t use John Dory any more.

Clinton Cooper,executive chef,Four Seasons,Mumbai,seconds Khambata. “Once you freeze anything,the cell structures break down and it takes on a mushy texture upon defrosting,” says Cooper,who prefers to use fresh and local fish. He also has other concerns about the import. “These fish don’t travel in schools,they’re loners. It’s not environmentally sustainable to keep fishing them out,” concludes Cooper.