The Sophisticate

Much of Ajjampur’s easy-to-please disposition comes from her nomadic life. She was born in Mumbai and moved to Europe at three. She studied in Vienna and the UK,went to Paris’ super snobby Chambre Syndicale de la haute Couture to learn to stitch and earned her Masters degree in Milan. Her clothes reflect her global l’air too: they are very European in flavour,many are Indian in their textures. She pulls out a fringed floor-sweeper in beige,with laser-cut crepe de Chine. There’s a golden brocade cape dress lying on the bed,alongside two ultra-sexy bikinis. Another nude tiered column dress with sequins and beads harks back to the flapper generation of the ’20s. “It’s for the red carpet — what Mumbai likes,” she says.

Ajjampur,42,says she’s lost in the city by the sea; she hasn’t presented here since 2007. “I’ve learnt to mould my aesthetic. India teaches you that,” she says with a laugh. She’s made herself more “flashy”,she adds,and begun to understand India’s sizing doesn’t always conform to the European model.

Her wardrobe comprises Armani and Lanvin,but also some truly vintage pieces by Mario Fortuny and Paul Poiret. When she isn’t reading hungrily (often three books at a time) or travelling,she’s playing mum to her two daughters and cooking at home,now Bangalore.

“Mine is a luxury product. I sell very special pieces at accessible prices,” she explains the superlative quality of her clothes. She can afford to do that because her Bangalore factory makes clothes and accessories (not just embroideries) for Lanvin,Chloe,Etro and Alexander McQueen. She’s also a creative consultant for Lanvin,Etro,Marni and Max Mara,and works directly with their creative heads.

Ajjampur has been selling at Netaporter.com and Anthropologie ever since we heard of them. Her career graph started in Europe first,as she lived in Milan,and then moved to India.

While most of Indian fashion survives between ornate Indian trousseau and handloom-driven textiles,Ajjampur’s urban chic is a niche. “I don’t know how to do bridal and my sales in India are negligible. I’d rather do what I know how to do. We don’t have department stores yet,” she avers.

If her oodles of talent,natural flair for an international aesthetic and sharp business acumen are to be judged,there’s little Ajjampur could do wrong.