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This is an archive article published on June 10, 2012

Run of the Mill

It calls itself Cafe Free India,but there’s nothing uniquely free or Indian about the 1,000-square feet space.

It calls itself Cafe Free India,but there’s nothing uniquely free or Indian about the 1,000-square feet space. The name,the manager later attempts to explain,stems from the fact that they serve “free-spirited food”. We decide to drop the matter of the name and find out that the eatery is the latest initiative by Sachin Roche,one of the founders of Goa’s popular Kamasutra Lounge and Bar.

The cafe in Worli is much like its contemporaries — Pali Village Cafe,Cafe Zoe and others. It has a bookshelf with newspapers,magazines and coffee-table books in one corner,while a blackboard displays the day’s specials. A faux wrought-iron staircase leads to the first level,which is still under construction. The whitewashed brick walls — influenced by cafes in New York — display artwork by upcoming artists.

The menu isn’t extensive and offers a mix of Asian and European fare. The beverages menu is limited to coffee and fresh lime water as the cafe awaits its liquor licence. As it opens only at noon,breakfast items — considered crucial to a cafe menu — are missing.

The Vienamese rice paper rolls,part of specials,have a wholesome crunch to them from the slices of carrots and cucumber. The chief source of flavour,thankfully,is not the sweet-and-spicy sauce but the fresh mint leaves wedged inside.

India finds representation with Calcutta Rolls,chicken or mutton with crunchy caramalised onions and spicy chillies,wrapped in an egg-coated roti. It isn’t authentic though but good enough for a busy executive on the go.

Among the mains,the Butter Chilly Oyster Prawns taste better on paper than on plate because the prawns,fried and then cooked in the sauce,are too soggy. But the Asian pot curry,scented with coconut and Thai spices,has a wonderful aroma and crunchy vegetables that go perfectly with a portion of mushroom celery rice.

It is not a place you will miss even if you don’t make a trip all the way to Worli. But one can’t have enough cafes in Mumbai,especially in an area dominated by offices.

Meal for Two:Rs 1,000.

This review was conducted anonymously.

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