Not just ratatouille

For Antonia Achache,Jeremie Sabbagh and Pierre Labail,each of who had moved to India in the last six years for various reasons,food became a unifying factor and the trio launched their first creperie,Suzette,at Nariman Point in 2011. Half-French half-Indian siblings Leila and Kevin Tayebaly,launched Kombava at their art-and-hobby centre Art Loft’s new space on Waroda Road,Bandra. They consider expanding their business in a country which is part of their roots .

“Food is a great unifying factor. We always wanted a cafe to be part of Art Loft so that it’s a meeting point for creative minds,” says Leila. Much like the restaurant’s name that means “kaffir lime”,an important ingredient in the cuisine of Reunion Island in France where the Tayebaly siblings grew up,Kombava offers food made using recipes from their native European country.

While most of these entrepreneurs are trained in the culinary arts,their decision to pursue a hospitality career in Mumbai comes as a surprise,especially since the city hasn’t ever warmed up to French cuisine in the past. Chez Vous at Churchgate,for instance,merely survived for over a year. Lastours believes the complex and elaborate cooking methods are perhaps the reason why people have stayed away from experimenting with French cuisine. “People here are intimidated due to our reputation for perfection,” she says in jest,adding,“French food is mostly meat-based,especially beef and veal,which clashes with religious sentiments in India.”

They also view in this shortcoming an opportunity. Bresson and Vezin,for example,believed Mumbai offered them a better chance at succeeding as compared to the competitive French market. Although not the first creperie,Suzette has been a huge success for the variety,quality and ambience it offers.

Sabbagh also believes the trick is to introduce French cuisine indirectly. “They originated in Brittany,but crepes are more universal and quite similar to dosas in Indian cuisine. They also can be manipulated to suit different palates and accommodate varying flavours,” says Sabbagh,who plans to launch the third branch of Suzette at BKC. Lastours experimented with a few items at The Pantry,such as the financiers,and hopes to introduce a few dishes at her new restaurant that will open in a couple of months’ time. “The advantage we have is that Indians are curious to experiment. So educating them through workshops and demos will help introduce them to French cuisine,” says Lastours.

For Leila,the food at Kombava will be much like her — chiefly French but with a hint of cuisines from across the world. “I grew up around the world and I bring all those influences to the kitchen. French cuisine,in fact,has much in common with Indian food — the French too labour over pots and pans for hours on end to get that perfect stew and curry. It should be interesting to merge the two,” she says.

dipti.nagpaul@expressindia.com