Stone Age

Spend a weekend exploring the glorious ruins and revisiting our rich heritage in Madhya Pradesh

If you make it to Orchha,a tiny town in Madhya Pradesh,it’s surprisingly easy to lose track of time and get immersed in its exotic past,textured as it is with tales of brave kings,loyal subjects and poetry-espousing courtesans. Once the capital of the Bundel prince Rudra Pratap in the 16th century,today,Orchha’s claim to fame rests on the architectural marvels that dot the countryside,along the river Betwa. There’s the fort built by Bharticharan,Pratap’s son,the main draw of the town. Inside,a number of palaces stand testimony to the might of the dynasty—the Jehangir Mahal built to commemorate the emperor’s visit to Orchha,Raja Mahal,the palace of king Madhukar Shah,Rai Parveen Mahal,another palace dedicated to the king’s favourite courtesan. Then there are the temples and the cenotaphs that dominate the landscape. The Ram Raja temple is the most celebrated,where every year the nuptials between Ram and Sita are celebrated with great pomp,drawing in huge crowds from adjacent towns and villages.

Of course,most tourists prefer to club a trip to Orchha with a visit to its more famous cousin,Khajuraho,situated about 170 kilometres away. The four-hour drive to the town,through small settlements and open fields could be a lot shorter but for the bad road conditions. In fact,it’s a good idea to start early,keeping some time in hand for the unforeseen but likely,tyre puncture. The first view of Khajuraho is spectacular; the 15-odd surviving temples of the Western group,dating back to over a 1000 years,sit pretty on a landscaped temple complex. Ever since it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site,the steady draw of tourists,both foreign and domestic,has ensured better maintenance. Interestingly,the erotic art,which Khajuraho is famous for,is restricted mostly to the outer walls. Local legend has it,that to approach divinity one has to leave behind his carnal desires. Keep your senses about you,because the temple complex will demand all your attention.