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This is an archive article published on October 1, 2009

Twinkle Twinkle Brittle Star

As the blinding flashbulbs retire for the night and the flawless mask of shine and glitter comes off with a drop of astringent,Bidita Bag returns to a reality not half as pretty as the one concocted on the ramp.

As the blinding flashbulbs retire for the night and the flawless mask of shine and glitter comes off with a drop of astringent,Bidita Bag returns to a reality not half as pretty as the one concocted on the ramp. No,we haven’t woken up in a Madhur Bhandarkar film,but the modelling industry (if we can at all call it one) in the city is stranger to the photoshopped glamour that we associate it with. To start with,the city is yet to wake up to the idea of agencies. “We have no proper agencies that can help you get a portfolio done,assist you with assignments. It becomes very difficult for a newcomer,” says Pinky Kenworthy,former model and painter. And it is not the only evidence of the severe lack of professionalism in the Kolkata leg of the modelling scene. “Lot of clients here don’t know who to approach for events and shoots. Taking advantage of the confusion,people who don’t know anything about fashion get into the scene and give the industry a bad name,” says model Jessica Gomes,who also organizes events at times.

Models themselves,at times,make it difficult to make harmony exist in the industry. “There’s very little unity among the models here. In most other cities,most models have fixed rates for shoots and shows. Here,people keep changing their price,they demand some amount from one client,some other amount from somebody else. It definitely questions both our talents and professionalism,” says Jessica. Also,with little feeling of solidarity around,it becomes difficult to deal with truant clients,event managers etc. “If you protest against un-professionalism,low pay,you’ll immediately be replaced by someone who is willing to work for half your pay,” says Pinky,who had to deal with whimsical events managers and model coordinators all throughout her career.

The first edition of the Kolkata Fashion Week saw just four city models taking part in the event. Most other models were flown down from Mumbai and Delhi. Following the feathers ruffled then,the organizers chose 20 male and female models for the second edition of the fashion week in the city. Interestingly,while the first screening was done by professionals from Elite Model Management,the next edition saw organizers and local model coordinators step in for the selection process. Though nobody is screaming it out from rooftops,it is clear that national agencies find a serious problem in the grooming of local models. “You have to learn the walk,understand camera angles. We all learnt it the while working,but it helps if someone could guide you when you enter the industry,” says Pinky. But grooming schools are hardly a thing to trust in Kolkata say industry veterans. “At times these schools recruit trainers who have not been B-grade models in the city itself. What can you learn from them,” says Gomes.

And finally,it boils down to the moolah that is as measly as a teenager’s monthly allowance at times. “The market is quite small here and models don’t get paid a lot,” says supermodel Noyonika Chatterjee,who has groomed girls across the country. Also,there’s a certain degree of discrimination working against local models,which makes it difficult to climb up the ladder. “Take for example the KFW II. Most of the local models walked for new,unknown designers. Two or three models walked for A-list designers,” says model Bidita Bag,who shuttles between Mumbai and Kolkata. Bag alleges that most A-list models in the city stayed away from the KFW ramp due to price problems. “Some city models were paid as less as Rs 2000. But they flew in models from Delhi/Mumbai in executive class and put them up at 5-stars,” says Bag. Chatterjee agrees that clients in the city refuse to invest in local models. “As a result it becomes difficult for them to sustain the kind of lifestyle that makes a model visible. You have to wear fashionable clothes,shoes,carry nice bags. And they don’t come cheap,” says Chatterjee. Even after grooming Chatterjee has seen girls fall back on a pattern of what they were initially. “Several aspiring models come from suburbs. When they return home,they can’t maintain the wardrobe,style that you can in the city. And most of these girls fail to juggle two different environments,” explains Chatterjee. It’s not all rosy elsewhere says Bidita. But opportunities don’t come with the city you were born in,the people you have worked with. “At least they let you audition for an ad or a shoot. If you are good,you’ll get work,” she says. Hope the city’s listening.

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