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MOMO MIA

The best things in life come wrapped in a thin film of flour. They are half-moon shaped and accompanied with a fiery red chutney.

The best things in life come wrapped in a thin film of flour. They are half-moon shaped and accompanied with a fiery red chutney. They peep out of large aluminum containers and unfailingly grace discoloured melamine plates at every crucial junction of the city. If one were to go by the sheer gastronomic infiltration of this innocuous-looking dumpling,one would be tempted to conclude that momo is Kolkata’s unofficial staple. Yet,it’s our neighbouring state Sikkim that has first stake on these little pieces of heaven. “Momo maybe Sikkim’s staple dish,but if you ask me I will say that you get the best momos in Kolkata. I reside in Gangtok now but whenever I visit Kolkata I make it a point to gorge on chicken momos from Tibetan Plaza,” says Jigme Wanchuk Bhutia a government officer from Sikkim who was a student with the Jadavpur University.

Indeed,those who consume these little steamed dumpling by the tons in ever possible food hub of the city— in the Dalhousie office para,near the Exide crossing or even at the Sector V— will agree. “We opened our restaurant here in the 1990s and our effort has been to consistently deliver authentic Tibetan food to our patrons. It’s true that many of our patrons say that they prefer our momos to the ones available in the hills but we take that as just a casual compliment,” says a spokesperson of Hamro Momo,one of the first momo shacks to open in the Momo gulli (Sambhunath Pandit street).

Delhi,which also has a large Tibetan and North-Eastern population,can boast of a sound “momo culture” too. “But the momos there aren’t as good as the ones you get here. The ones you get at the Delhi Haat,however,are almost comparable to the Kolkata variety,” says Rajarshi Bose,a student of IIMC Delhi who was “brought up” on Kolkata momos.

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