Royal twist

“ I live across the palace,so it was fitting to pay a tribute to the Maharajas who were a blend of power and youthful charm,” he says. There are rigorously tailored tuxedos in black,the quintessential bandhgala without a hint of embroidery,and double breasted jackets in royal blue and black—clothes that hint at the sartorial style of the late political leader and Maharaja of Gwalior. “I have just drawn an elegiac reference from the late Madhav Rao Scindia”,says Gyanani,who set up his label in 2008.

The designer stresses that the collection merges old world glamour with work-day grit. That explains,the white bulked-out churidars-his alternative to pyjamas and see through shirts for the modern day clubbing Maharajas. The collection has a sharp urban feel,sans any embroidery. “For me,this is how the Maharajas of today would dress. There is absolutely no embroidery in the collection,not even a single sequin. It is based on details like cuts and pleats,” said Gyanani,adding that he referenced the photos of Scindia and trekked to Jai Vilas palace to study the Scindia memorabilia.

Apart from Gyanani,designer duo Rohit,37,and Abhishek Kamra,35,too,are debuting at the fashion event. Rohit and Abhishek’s inspiration isn’t too far from decadent royalty either. It helps that they are based out of the Pink City,India’s seat of royal power.

Their collection Regalia of the Chivalric melds the old macho swagger of the Victorian era with modern luxe. So,tight trousers take on a battered look with buttons on the legs,ripples of trim dominate the front of shirts,and bolo ties (two corded necktie) add a crazy romanticism. “ The collection is like a return of the modern swashbuckling Maharaja,” said Rohit,the creative head of the label,that began designing menswear in 2004. On his part,the designer mined London’s Lafayette Studio,researching on the evolution of bandghalas,Jodhpur pants and Nehru collars. The breeches,however,are absent from his collection,in their place,the young dandies will wear trousers,rolled up at the ankles,hemmed with elastic and jackets belted at the waist. The 25 creations play out in muted shades,occasionally brightened by orangish tie-and-dye work.

Mumbai-based designer Troy Costa is infiltrating the male customer’s closets not with nobility but a resort wear collection. There are creased,blotched creations,micro-checked shirts and azure blue suits paired with dress-down sandals. The palette is a spectrum of blues— from indigo to the denim shirt blue. “For me the new man is someone who might wear a dinner jacket with sandals,” said Costa.

Whether the young customer will adapt to the new fashion regime is yet to be seen.