Royal Salute

The show began with a jugalbandi between kathak dancers on the floor and a flamenco dancer on the ship. Then the Maharaja of Madrid himself — actor Kabir Bedi — dressed in a floor-length jacket with stunning embroidery appeared. It was definitely a dramatic start with music by Gaurav Raina of the Medieval Pundits. The first part of the collection saw outfits in ivory with detailing inspired by the lace found in Spanish fans and headgear. The silhouettes were in the designer’s signature style — floor-length Anarkalis. Menswear,also a part of the line-up,brought in dressed-up achkans and jackets. The highlights were the Madrid elements — the quintessential Spanish fringed-shawls with their floral embroideries were well interpreted with Indian Jamavar by Valaya. The bright orange flowers and tassle-trimmings took the Spanish story forward in a collection that was resplendent in hues such as deep aubergine,red and turquoise. A Valaya collection would be incomplete without the use of velvet,also a staple in a Maharaja’s wardrobe,and this collection saw plenty of that with rich silks,jacquards,tulle and georgette.

The collection had moments of familiarity with the embroideries but there were some newer elements,which included references to murals by Mexican artist Diego Rivera. Valaya researched for a year on the artist. These were cleverly combined with Indian miniature art in the set of ensembles in black and scarlet. There was a time when the Indian bride would have shied away from packing a black outfit in her trousseau but as Valaya’s collection proved that wrong. The final set of outfits was an ode to the matadors and here the collection took on darker and deeper hues. Swarovski,another Valaya essential,glinted from the outfits comprising lehengas,all of which were a visual delight with their intricate embroidery,even though some motifs were from his previous collections.

The Princess closed the show,wearing an attitude and a turban over long flowing locks,a heavily embroidered lehenga without dupatta. The dark,grunge nail paint was not hard to miss and neither was the opulent jewellery. Brides can take tips.