Mirror image

And that’s where the style sorcery unfolded, with the mirrors hiding and revealing, reflecting and blocking in turn, making it an intriguing game of pursuit. The opening sequence of models parading in white paper shirt dresses — inspired by Pratap’s staple classic white shirt — was made surreal by the lit helmets they donned. Thereby followed a summery line of gossamer sorbet-coloured separates. But while the colours were soft, the silhouettes were structured and the fabrics were an intermingling of hand-woven khadi, silk, linen and yarns of silver, stainless steel and aluminium, maintaining a delicate dichotomy. Likewise, a sequence of metallic creations was infused with a liquidity that belied the heft of its fabric, setting the mood for a show that tricked and entranced in qual measure.

Practical pret skirts, dresses, pinafores, blousons, coats and sheath dresses for women met an inventive menswear line with structured and textured suits, metallic shine, patterned bomber jackets, bundi vests, cropped sleeves and short lengths.

The final sequence of blacks took Pratap’s illusion forward with mirror-work and embroidery that made use of flexible sequin sheets. The finale garment that showstopper Kareena Kapoor Khan donned, had rosettes in a shattered mirror-like mosaic, actually skilful embroidery with high-gloss sequin sheets, giving the illusion of glass.

The only discordant note in an otherwise pitch-perfect show was a metallic striped gown that was a little too reminiscent of designer Amit Aggarwal’s touch. Otherwise, with customised accessories such as bumble-bee glasses, teardrop jewellery, transparent graphic heels and bangles thrown in, Pratap made a good case for originality and
reinvention.

For the Bollywood razzmatazz that generally gets tagged to LFW, the profundity of a Pratap show was a fitting finale. Like his collection note said, “Opposites sometimes need to meet”.

Selfie Alert

Call it the ‘selfie’, ‘usfie’ or ‘groupie’, the LFW ramp saw this latest phenomenon take on a life of its own. While Huemn by Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty paid a tongue-in-cheek tribute with their #Selfie sweatshirt; Papa Don’t Preach by Shubhika Davda saw models taking selfies. But Shantanu & Nikhil, took the cake, who, at the end of their Nokia-sponsored show, took a group selfie (below pic) with all their models.

Simply Chic

Understated is not a word one tends to associate with Neeta Lulla’s designs. Throwing a definite curveball with a diffusion line was fashion and costume designer Lulla, who is known for her elaborate bridal creations and dramatic red carpet ensembles. On Day 5 of LFW, Lulla played her trademark Indo-western card, albeit in a pared down, chic and wearable collection of separates. Monotone outfits in black, cobalt blue, chutney green, orange and Rani pink walked the ramp in simple cuts and easy silhouettes. Kaftan dresses with high slits and pockets, kurtis paired with sheer cover-ups and slim pants, and ombre saris with crop-top blouses were accented with hints of mukaish embroidery. Separates in watered-down neon Aztec prints provided visual relief from the tropical colour code. The collection was accessorised with Kolhapuri footwear, gajras, tassel belts and traditional jhumkas. It’s been a while Lulla did simple so skilfully.

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