Old clothes, new meaning: the rise of thrifting culture in India

In India, thrifting is evolving in online spaces with some offline markets in cities like Mumbai, New Delhi, Pune, and Kolkata. The urban youth has been the driving force of this culture.

“I like to thrift because it is affordable, but more importantly, it is sustainable. I love fashion, but I don’t like to contribute to the fast-fashion brands that add so much textile waste,” says Krish Nerurkar, a student from Pune who is concerned about the environment. “I also upcycle thrift finds by painting or embroidering on them to make custom pieces. This way, styling doesn’t burn a hole in my pocket.”

The urban youth has been the driving force of this culture. (Express Photo)

Self-expression at minimal cost

Thrifting has gained popularity among students since they can indulge in forms of self-expression at minimal cost. It is also a great social activity where one can walk around the city and shop with people of like-minded fashion sense and political will to protect the planet.

“I thrift because my taste in fashion is quite whimsical and different from the mass-produced stuff you get at chain stores like H&M and Zara. It is also fun to just walk around and hunt for clothes with your friends with a coffee in hand,” explains Sarah Katherine, an avid fashion enthusiast.

However, Katherine considers the thrifting culture in India to be quite nascent still. She outlines some of her struggles with thrifting in Pune, “Malaysia has been my favourite country to thrift in because the thrifting culture there is quite organised. However, in Pune, offline thrifting is mostly limited to street shopping, where vendors often move or are shut down due to local regulations.”

The general consensus around thrifting in India is that even though the offline market is disorganised, rare fashion gems and wardrobe staples can be found if you have a patient eye.

Online stores have also responded to the growing demand for second-hand goods. Asmi Kulkarni, the founder of a thrift store, aims to create a community-driven, conscious fashion space where clothes don’t go to waste, and people benefit together.

Thrifting has gained popularity among students since they can indulge in forms of self-expression at minimal cost. (Express Photo)

“A major part of my sourcing comes from people around me, friends, acquaintances, or known contacts, who have clothes that no longer fit them or suit their style but are still in great condition. They give these pieces to me to resell, and we mutually decide on a fair price. Once the item is sold, 60 per cent of the amount goes back to them, so it’s a shared benefit model,” says Kulkarni.

Kulkarni also says that platforms like Instagram have made thrifting more accessible and relatable, turning it into a trend that everyone can subscribe to. In Pune, thrift stores can be found in Shivajinagar, Camp, and MG Road, beside a few online ones.

History shows that moments of economic and social uncertainty often give rise to counter-cultures that challenge dominant norms. How people dress is one of the most visible markers of that shift. In the aftermath of the pandemic and amid growing disillusionment with fast fashion, young Indians are turning to pre-owned clothing as a way to challenge existing over-consumption and ethical norms.

What may appear as an “anti-culture” to mainstream retail is, in reality, a deeply human instinct to adapt, resist excess, and find meaning in unprecedented times. As this culture continues to evolve in India, it reflects not just a change in wardrobes, but a broader rethinking of the values shared by Gen Z.

Shreenija Dandavate is an intern with The Indian Express, Pune.