Male Bastion

The opening day though started off with a whimper. On the runway,one of the bolts on the steel truss holding the powerful lights snapped before Kumar’s opening show,causing almost a two hour delay. The main show area was emptied out and two pillars erected on extreme ends to prevent further accidents. While Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) President Sunil Sethi maintained he was “clueless” as to what happened,he asserted that the lighting team had settled the matter. “For me,the safety of the guests is of utmost importance. On our part we try to deliver the best,” he said. Mumbai-based Viraf Pocha,technical expert,shared,“The truss was put up on Monday and it was fine. It is simply a faulty bolt which snapped. Tonight we will dismantle the whole thing and check.”

The front row glitterati too gave the opening show a miss,thanks to the news of the technical snag getting around early. However,Kumar seemed unfazed. “These things happen. I can’t say I am disappointed,” he said.

Delhi designer Samant Chauhan reinvented the modern-day anti-hero ,trussing him in gas masks,aviator helmets,boots,gloves and dusty brown cigarette pants with suspenders and paired them with battered looking jackets. The show opened with a clip from Stanley Kubrick’s 1971 film A Clockwork Orange,based on Anthony Burgess’ book. The models walked out with bandaged faces,in black jackets belted at the waist,lugging old-fashioned boxy luggage cases. The high point was a flowing dhoti paired with a cream linen jacket. If that wasn’t enough,a frizzy-haired model strutted down dressed in a tiger print jacket,teamed with a pleated white skirt. Chauhan says he has made peace with the fact that the collection is not high on saleability. “Each piece can be worn separately,but I don’t expect too many buyers for it,” he said.

If you thought,resort wear was strictly for bored socialites,there was Mumbai designer Troy Costa looking to break the stereotype. Post Chauhan’s grungy show,Costa served sophisticated tuxedos in summery yellows,blues paired with the season’s most memorable accessory,— the gladiator sandals,this time for men. His boys walked down in 28 creations— in dark blue denim bandhgala jackets,pin-striped faded denims,plunging v-necked tee shirts,check pants and paisley printed shorts. “I am not going to make something which won’t sell. Resortwear for men is the next big thing,” said Costa at the end of the show.

However,it was designer Ashish Soni’s collection that was the most spectacular. Mustachioed models padded on to the catwalk in pinstriped suits with pocket handkerchiefs peeping out,colourful bow ties and trousers with cummerbunds — a look more apt for an English summer. His checked pants,frilled and olive green polka dotted shirts drew a wide applause from the front row — especially from good friend,businessman Robert Vadra,who cheered enthusiastically. “I like the kind of stuff Ashish makes,” said Vadra at the end of the show,laughing off the idea that his pencil moustache inspired the look for Soni’s models. Soni too said that the resemblance was co-incidental. “It’s a seventies-inspired look. We are both from that generation,so that’s why you feel there’s a similarity,” he said.

Chatter-box
Bling Brigade
The re-invention the front row is the most potent measure of success for a designer and his show. At the Van Heusen India Mens Week,the fashionistas arrived,fashionably late. Socialite Tanisha Mohan teamed up her glittery Diane von Furstenberg dress with Dior shoes and a ostrich Kelly tote from Hermes. “In India the concept of front row in India is yet to evolve. Internationally,the front row invitees are all gathered in an area and then escorted in. We don’t have that here,” she sighed. Fellow socialite Sallohi Kumar,carrying the latest Louis Vuitton handbag in gold elaborated,“Here it’s all about the bling,like Vegas,” she said,“I wanted to wear Gaultier,but it’s not shiny enough,so I chose this instead,” she said,pointing at the elaborate gold embellished belt she had picked up from Selfridges in London for occasions like these.

Friendship Brand
Entrepreneur Ameeta Seth,dressed in Marc Jacobs,was more intent on expressing her solidarity with designer friends than on front rows. “I like to dress real. And if I am at a show where I know the designer,I’ll even a wear a tee-shirt from his old collection if I have to. It’s about showing solidarity,” she said. Alia Allana