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This is an archive article published on May 24, 2009

Living and loving Delhi

The sun-soaked steps of Kushak Mahal are strewn with neem leaves. Thirsty barbets twitch feebly in the summer air.

The sun-soaked steps of Kushak Mahal are strewn with neem leaves. Thirsty barbets twitch feebly in the summer air. Rumbling up to the sheltered hollow of Feroze Shah Tughlaq’s hunting lodge—now part of the premises of Teen Murti House—there is talk of the 18 canals that once criss-crossed Delhi,of Chor Bazaar in the shadow of the Lal Quila,of the British Capital that almost came up on the marshland that now stretches across Jahangirpuri.

They call themselves ‘klodb’—which stands for ‘knowing loving Delhi better’. They joke that they would have attributed the name to Mad Magazine references to clods,but really they had only pre-empted being called something as preposterous as ‘bhraman sangathan’ by a wacky friend. Twelve years ago,sitting in a gallery on a wintry Saturday afternoon,Ayush,Jaya Iyer and a handful of friends were mulling over their love of the city’s markets,monuments and avenues,when they decided to bring urban explorers together by organising Sunday walks through a Google group. The next day saw 30-40 klodb members traipsing about Surajkund,a walk Ayush—who sends out a yearly calendar of walks to the 400-plus members—repeated in November 2008.

Over the last decade,in their dozens of expeditions across Delhi,klodb members have traded their Sunday sleep-ins for a morning amble,lost their way in the jungles of the Ridge—to the delight of some and the consternation of others—and even hitched a ride with a film crew once. Perhaps just 40-50 klodb members are active. At times whole families turn up for a walk,with children in tow; at others,there have been just two members walking. “We usually have someone to lead our walks,but we’re all exploring the city together. It’s a very loose group. We don’t even have a website,” says Ayush,a freelancer who is working on developing a resource centre for children at the Nehru Memorial Library.

Every walk typically ends with lunch,usually a local delicacy. “Have you eaten parantha halwa near Nizamuddin Dargah,and sharifa kulfi at Janak Bazaar?” Jaya,also involved with the children’s project at the library,doesn’t wait for an answer. “The bazaar comes up at the Ram Lila grounds in festival season. There are mountains of food—it’s right out of Arabian Nights,” she says. Fakhra Siddiqui,who has spent over 35 Sundays in the last five years walking with klodb,says the food walks have been a lot of fun—the halwa-kachori at Darya Ganj they sampled in January is a taste to remember,she says.

Klodb likes to go bird-watching in Delhi’s precious greens. “In a couple of hours,you can spot 30-40 species of birds—hornbills,sunbirds,cuckoos,magpies—right here in Teen Murti House,” says Jaya. A rivulet called the Kushal Nullah has dried up and the birds have nowhere to go to slake their thirst. Ajay Mahajan,a sporadic klodb walker and an environmentalist,expresses concern over the denudation of bird habitats in the city such as Bhalaswa Lake,which used to attract an impressive variety of migratory water birds. Jaya sums it up neatly,“Look at how the city is changing. What has become of it. But Delhi being Delhi,it will find its feet and recover as it always has.”

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