Indian Accent

For a lunch on a weekday,Ananda’s was quite crowded. There were two kitty parties and a few families enjoying themselves in the 60-cover restaurant,while several office lunch-goers tucked into the hearty meals. The Nathu’s lineage has already ensured the restaurant a loyal customer-base who is ready to upgrade themselves from the steel plates and non-descript chairs to bone china cutlery and cushioned seating. But Ananda’s is far from being the ‘ultimate fine-dining experience’ it aspires to provide. Instead,its specialty lies in providing tasteful staples at very affordable rates.

The staff is helpful and eager to please,even though it takes some time to explain your preferences. The menu contains an expansive list of Punjabi and Chinese cuisine — the staple diet of most Delhities. The drinks menu has a variety of mocktails and soft drinks,and no alcohol yet. We decided to stick to Indian fare and began our meal on a promising note with a complimentary platter of crackers and four well-prepared dips. The competence of a good Punjabi restaurant is measured by the softness of its naan,and the butter in its gravies. The naan at Ananda’s was not much to write about — it was generic and could do with more fluffiness. But the Chandi Malai Kofta (Rs 195) and Tawa ke Mutton Tikka (Rs 250),both recommended signature preparations,redeemed with a surprising burst of flavours. The kofta was coated with silver foil,under which soft and tender malai koftas were immersed in buttery gravy of finely ground peanuts. The mutton tikkas were tender and succulent,with just the right mix of spices,that melted in your mouth without much effort. The gravy was typical of its Amritsari roots.

Our attempt at experimenting with the dessert,however,proved to be a mistake. The light fluffy cream cake,that the Lemon Soufflé (Rs 95) promised to be,was more cream than cake and had an aftertaste of artificial flavouring. The lemon syrup was too sweet,the chocolate wafer sticks lacked crunch. The only thing that could redeem it was the trusted seventy year old recipe of Nathu’s — the Rasmalai Amritsari (Rs 70) — which we ordered to end the meal on a sweeter note. The coffee that followed was bland though.

Check Ananda’s out if you want to savour some hearty Punjabi grub in ambient surroundings,but don’t go expecting anything fancy.