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Cheetal Grand, a nostalgic stopover for many heading to Uttarakhand hills, bids farewell to its owner

Shariq Rana, who passed away after battling multiple health issues, welcomed guests with a personal touch at Cheetal Grand.

cheetal grandThe red-boarded restaurant, with its triangular roof, manicured bonsais, and forest-green chairs, stood still on Sunday. (Source: Facebook)

For generations of travellers heading to the hills of Uttarakhand, the road to the Khatauli Bypass has been more than just a stretch of highway—it has been a ritual. A promise of samosas the size of fists, plates of chicken ring rice, fluffy cheese omelettes at Cheetal Grand.

But the red-boarded restaurant, with its triangular roof, manicured bonsais, and forest-green chairs, stood still on Sunday. Not because of the annual Kanwar Yatra closure — that’s routine. But from the passing of its most familiar face: Shariq Rana, who had, for decades, greeted guests with a warmth that now feels irreplaceable. If you visit Cheetal, you couldn’t have missed him: a dense black moustache and a big, warm smile that would greet guests like old friends.

Rana had been battling a heart condition for the past 28 years and was also diagnosed with cancer two years ago. Speaking to The Indian Express, his son Ali Rana, who is now going to take the business forward, said, “We are truly distressed with him passing away; he was battling multiple health issues, but he never gave up.”

Rana breathed his last at 8.15 pm after suffering from multiple organ failure, Sunday night, at the Escorts Hospital in Delhi. He was buried in the cemetery of his native village Phulat Sharif at 10.30 am on Monday. When Rana passed, for many, the void felt collective, and thousands reached out to bid him farewell.

“People showed up from all walks — politicians, social workers, labourers, officers. That says enough about his legacy, he had always believed in giving back to the community and in helping people,” said a close family relative, who didn’t want his name to be disclosed. In Khatauli, Rana was widely known for his social work, almost always without publicity.

Cheetal’s story had begun on the banks of the old canal in Khatauli in 1972, when Rana’s father, who had come from a catering and hospitality background, had opened the place. The family had deep ties to the Forest Department, Rana had in fact grown up at the Jim Corbett National Park. Cheetal was initially established on government-leased land nestled in a green surrounding next to the old Ganga canal, which had a deer park in its proximity and was surrounded by lush-green forests. Due to their love for wildlife, they decided to name it after the spotted deer, or the cheetal that used to graze nearby.

Shariq, along with his elder brother, helped their father run the place and would sell cheese omelettes, heart-shaped cutlets, and crispy samosas that soon earned a following. But it was the experience that stuck: a slice of forest on the highway, a place where time paused.

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When the lease on the forest property ended after 18 years, the original Cheetal shifted to a smaller place— but Shariq didn’t let the legacy dissolve. He led the family’s effort to relocate and rebuild. A new Cheetal rose a short distance away.

After the national highway was built, came Cheetal Grand, another new restaurant that carried echoes of the old — a triangular roof with lush green plants decorated at its entrance, a red sign with bold yellow letters the same taste, neat dining areas— a bigger menu but the same taste, and Rana, always at the front, overlooking the orders being prepared and greeting familiar guests personally.

The Beatles, the Dalai Lama among visitors

Even celebrities found their way there — The Beatles, on their way to Rishikesh, the Dalai Lama during a visit, Saif Ali Khan, Irrfan Khan, and Nawazuddin Siddiqui, to name a few.

Mahesh Kuriyal, a resident of Dehradun, said, “About 22 years ago, while driving to Delhi, I had severe vertigo about 15-20 km before Cheetal Grand and could not drive. My wife somehow drove to Cheetal, and I just lay down on a bench in the garden. Mr Shariq came and opened a nice air-conditioned room for me. After having a nice nap for four to five hours, I decided to proceed. He didn’t charge a single penny from me. Definitely a very humble man and great host.”

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“Twenty five years ago, when I used to travel often to Muzaffarnagar and Saharanpur, it was a must stop for every trip, it had become popular due to its paratha and cheese omelettes, there weren’t many places that used to serve food on the route back then, so Cheetal used to be a luxury experience for us…back then my kids were small, so they used to ask when we are going to reach Cheetal after every five minutes,” said Ajay Pal Singh.

“For us, Cheetal is nostalgia. It wasn’t just about food; all visits to Cheetal were memories. Back then, there weren’t many places where we could dine, so we used to visit Cheetal,” said Anjum, a regular visitor who is a resident of Muzaffarnagar.

Saman Husain is a Correspondent at The Indian Express. Based in New Delhi, she is an emerging voice in political journalism, reporting on civic governance, elections, migration, and the social consequences of policy, with a focus on ground-reporting across Delhi-NCR and western Uttar Pradesh. Professional Profile Education: She holds a Bachelor’s degree in Political Science (Honours) from Kirori Mal College, University of Delhi, and is an alumna of the Asian College of Journalism (ACJ), Chennai. Core Beats: Her reporting focuses on the national capital’s governance and politics. She specializes in Delhi’s civic administration and the city units of the BJP, AAP and Congress. In western Uttar Pradesh, she mostly reports on crime. Specialization: She has a keen interest in electoral processes and politics — her recent contributions include work on electoral roll revisions. Recent Notable Articles (since July 2025) Her recent work reflects a strong show-not-tell approach to storytelling, combining narrative reporting with political and historical context: 1. Politics: “On the banks of the Yamuna, a political tussle for Purvanchali support” (October 6): A report on how migration histories shaped electoral strategies in Delhi before the Bihar elections. “Explained: How Delhi’s natural drainage vanished gradually over the centuries” (September 29): An explanatory piece tracing the historical reasons that eventually led to the erosion of Delhi’s rivers and its impact on perrenial flooding. 2. Longforms “Four weddings, three funerals: How a Uttar Pradesh man swindled insurance companies” (October 7): A long-read reconstructing a chilling fraud by a man who killed three of his family members, including both his parents for insurance proceeds. His fourth wife discovered his fraud… “How Ghaziabad conman operated fake embassy of a country that doesn’t exist — for 9 years” (July 27) : A story on bizarre fraud operation and the institutional blind spots that enabled it. 3. Crime and Justice: “He was 8 when his father was killed. Fifteen years later, in UP’s Shamli, he took revenge” (October 18): A deeply reported crime story tracing cycles of violence, memory and justice in rural Uttar Pradesh. “Who killed 19 girls in Nithari? With the SC rejecting appeals, there are no answers and no closure” (July 31): A report capturing the long legal and emotional aftermath of one of India’s most chilling unsolved criminal cases. 4. Policy Impact “At Manthan, over US tariffs, Delhi-NCR’s apparel industry brainstorms solutions” (September 8) and “Trump’s 50% tariff begins to bite: Agra’s leather belt feels the impact” (August 13) : Reports documenting how global trade decisions ripple through local industries, workers and exporters. Signature Style Saman is recognized for her grassroots storytelling. Her articles often focus on the "people behind the policy". She is particularly skilled at taking mundane administrative processes and turning them into compelling human narratives. X (Twitter): @SamanHusain9 ... Read More

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