Breaking journey

This is unlike several historical sarais in Punjab’s Noormahal,Nakodar and Sarai Amanat Khan,where one can see most of the original structure and even a couple of original glazed tiles. In contrast,take the case of Lado Sarai. Apart from a dilapidated wall,it’s all but gone. Katwaria Sarai,Jiya Sarai,Kalu Sarai,Sheikh Sarai have all disappeared giving way to prospering South Delhi colonies. Sarai Rohila was turned into a railway station and Sarai Juliana was used to rehabilitate Christian families staying around the Raisina Hill when Lutyens began building New Delhi. In recent years,ruins of Lodhi era Sarai Sohail near Dwarka caught the attention of the conservators when the government gave its nod to airport expansion plans. And thanks to Jahan-e-Khusro,there was at least some curiosity regarding Arab ki sarai that was an apt venue for the cultural event. The sarai was built for the masons working on the Humayun’s Tomb.

Right from the Ashokan era,sarais have always existed in some form or the other in the country and particularly in Delhi,Punjab and Uttar Pradesh. Usually,a chain of rest houses came up at regular intervals on the main trade route. Rulers of the Delhi Sultanate had built a number sarais—a tradition that was continued by Sher Shah Suri when he built the Grand Trunk Road and also by the Mughals. Typically,a sarai—invariably square or rectangle in shape with high walls and at least two gates—was never a standalone structure. Instead,it had a stable,a baoli or a water tank and a mosque attached to it. The remains of a sarai in Mehrauli can be spotted almost next to the Rajon ki baoli stepwell. Sarais were also built near the tombs of saints —as was the case of Sheikh Sarai that was built near the tomb of Sheikh Alauddin and that of Sarai Kale Khan near the tomb of Sufi saint Kale Khan.

There were also sarais built by influential nobles as an act of charity. For instance,Kamra Bangash in the old city was built by a Pathan soldier Mohammad Khan Bangash who rose to become the viceroy of Allahabad in the 18th century. Serai Shahji,near Begumpur in Malviya Nagar,is another of such inns. Its builder,Farid Murtaza Khan,who lies buried at a little distance from this structure,is also credited with founding Faridabad. Dating back to Akbar’s time,large parts of the structure has survived the onslaught of time and urbanisation. Strangely,a sarai built much later than this,by Shah Jahan’s daughter Jahanara in the old city,has long vanished.