Bonne Bistro

The furniture is wooden while the ceramic tableware makes a nice change from the usual glass-china combinations. There’s an interesting wooden structure on the ceiling,resembling branches,with a nest as a central motif. Diners can allow their eyes to wander over its contours while waiting for their meal to arrive,which,we are happy to report,takes a really short time.

For our first course,we decided to try some of the more experimental items on the menu and order Bacon Wrapped Parmesan Dates,along with Lamb and Confied Tomato Crispy Filo. The filo is accompanied by onion jam and hummus,which is just as well,as the lamb isn’t particularly flavoursome. While the onion jam sorts that out,the hummus is also lacking slightly in tahina. On the other hand,the bacon wrapped dates are spectacular. The saltiness of the bacon goes well with the sweet richness of the dates,while the Parmesan gives it that welcome sharpness. The fried okra accompanying it is insipid in comparison,though the tamarind mustard makes for a nice dip for the dates.

For our main course,we decided to go paisan and have the classic coq au vin. Chez Nini’s rendition is a far-cry from its country version,with rocket leaves (we’re not sure about salad leaves in a warm dish) and slivered carrots. The meat is well-cooked,the braised skin locking in the flavour,though the gravy could have perhaps done with a soupcon less of red wine. The addition of croutons was over-generous.

For dessert,we had carrot cake with cream cheese icing and candied hazelnuts. The carrot cake is really good (the most-ordered dessert,our helpful server was quick to point out),the warm cake combining with the icing in weird and wonderful ways. Patrons who wish to take a piece of the Chez Nini experience back home can visit the bakery counter and choose from a selection of breads,pastries and desserts. Something tells us most people will do just that.

Meal for two: Rs. 2,500 (including taxes,
excluding alchohol)

Address: 79 & 80,Meher Chand Market,Lodhi Colony Contact: 9560211223

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