Pub-lic Enemy

Goa regulars might be familiar with the superlative French restaurant,La Plage,located on Morjim beach. La Plage,that translates into ‘by the beach’,is possibly one of the most authentic French restaurants in India serving delicately-flavoured carpaccios,a variety of divine salads and tasty combinations of locally-grown materials. The very interesting trio of French chef Morgan,his partner Florence and associate Serge,who have developed a huge following in Goa have opened La Plage in Manali this summer. Set in a sprawling apple orchard with rose creepers,a view of the Himalayas and the Beas flowing in front,this quality of restaurant is a first for Manali,more so because there are enough discerning travellers to appreciate it. It’s packed all of June and with their Indian partners Shivani and Laali Bhullar,the trio plan to open in Jaipur and Chandigarh next. Florence is very sure she wants to steer clear of big cities in India,and take French cuisine to places that have a slower,more relaxed pace of life.

Judging by the crackdown on restaurants and nightlife in Mumbai,Florence might be on to something: the future of restaurants and bars in India lies in two-tier towns where people are looking for entertainment and where the police,so far,don’t have the right to regulate nightlife. Who would have imagined that the most cosmopolitan,some would say the only such city in India,would fall victim to archaic laws that not just eateries,even customers need to have a licence to drink? Or maybe,we’re all guilty of perpetuating the myth of Mumbai being way cooler than every other city in India. The lifestyles of a couple of thousand people in the film industry,a handful of industrialists and corporate stars have made such an impact culturally,that we gloss over the several million slum dwellers,crumbling edifices and the generally vile life of a regular Mumbaikar. But now,even the staunchest Mumbaikar is fed up. Consider,that in a city with an electorate of over 2.02 crore,barely a few lakh turned up to vote at the BMC election in February this year. But a sense of acute frustration is bringing thousands together for a protest on Carter Road on a Sunday,to demand their freedom (to party) back. The Facebook page protesting against police officer Vasant Dhoble’s methods of shutting down parties carries pictures saying,‘Stop punishing innocent revellers,catch the guilty criminals’.

At a time when cities like Delhi and Mumbai should be considering allowing pubs and bars to stay open 24/7,things have tragically gone the other way,and they’re just about functioning at night. The people who write the laws and rules may be working nine to five,but over 10 million educated 20-something Indians work the evening and night shifts. Shouldn’t there be options for them,in case they want to catch up with friends for drinks,after-hours? That’s how it works in most big cities of the world. There’s no presumption: you can open and close when it’s right for your business and customers. For those who hold forth on drinking related debauchery,a study in England suggests that extended pub hours prevented binge drinking and the levels of alcohol-fuelled violence remained unchanged. It’s a little naive to think that shorter drinking hours will ensure lesser addiction. In any case,as adults,we have the freedom to choose when and how much to drink. Should the police be deciding our leisure agendas? Having a good time is not a crime.

(hutkayfilms@gmail.com)