Play of Contrasts

Later,on a wood-finished ramp flanked by red velvet-covered seating,we see Mukherjee’s modern-day maharani emerge,wearing a black bandhgala sherwani with oversized gold buttons and polki earrings. Diamonds glitter at her throat as she steps out in a floral belted jacket top with a monotone embroidered skirt. She dons a chamois satin sari with lace pleats and teams it with a Chanel-esque striped knit blouse,topped off with an emerald-centred diamond necklace worth a few crores. How’s that for nonchalant hedonism?

Intricate tone-on-tone embroidery adorns stark black gowns,red fishtail skirts and ecru bandhgalas,speaking of a quieter sophistication. In contrast,the diamond jewellery (courtesy Gem Palace) dazzles. Layering juxtaposes disparate techniques and every ensemble is a balancing act as glitter,gold,lace and velvet meet prints and quilting. In a clever play of contrasts,a plain deep green quilted lehenga is paired with a sequinned floor-length jacket and a soft embellished net dupatta. Mukherjee’s men also don jackets,sherwanis and bandhgalas in tonal embroidery,quilting and floral prints with matching turbans. The colours are sophisticated as blacks,red and nudes mingle with gold,greens and whites.

And while Lakme’s winter/festive theme called for a degree of finery,the few pared down pieces in the 57-garment collection offer us fleeting glimpses of the Mukherjee of yore,who made us fall in love with simple hand-spun khadi and made prim bow blouses sexy. How about a pure prêt showcase next time,Mr. Mukherjee?