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National Award-winner Neeta Lulla on designing for Kochadaiiyaan — India’s first photorealistic performance capture film

The last couple of months have been particularly hectic for Neeta Lulla. They have also been very challenging,to say the least,for this National Award-winning designer. Apart from dishing out couture collections,Lulla — a well-known costume designer — has worked on more than 300 films. But,as she admits so herself,her most recent,Tamil film Kochadaiiyaan – The Legend that stars Rajinikanth and Deepika Padukone,saw her use her technical skills to the best of her ability.

“I am a costume designer for the film but no real clothes were worn,” says Lulla. Being India’s first photorealistic performance capture film,Lulla had to painstakingly sketch each of the outfits worn by the cast. A period film,it has Rajinikanth play three different characters and Lulla had to create an individualistic look for each one. “It meant doing nearly 400 sketches by hand and out of this,we selected 150,” said Lulla,who was in Chandigarh to showcase a cocktail-wear collection as part of the ongoing multi-city Blender’s Pride Fashion Tour 2013,which kickstarted on Saturday.

Directed by Rajinikanth’s daughter Soundarya R Ashwin,the film is unlike an animation film and the design sketches had to be further deconstructed using swatches. “Research has been integral to my work and for Kochadaiiyaan,I had to get the detailing in the armour and the weaponised look of the costumes right for it to leave an impact,” said the designer,who has received the National Award for Best Costume Design in a Film four times. “Everyone has high expectations this time around as well,and I am keeping my fingers crossed,” said Lulla,who spent eight months working on the film.

“Apart from the sketches,me and my team had to present each intricate detail on paper for each character. We sat with the technical team on how it would look on screen,how a particular fabric twirls or ruffles and how an embroidery reflects light. The final ensembles were then,through computer generation,superimposed on the silhouettes of the actors,” Lulla said. The technology used in the film saw teams from China,Chennai and Los Angeles work together on the final output. “Being a part of Kochadaiiyaan is a milestone in my career and I am really looking forward to its release later this year,” said Lulla.

Interestingly,she’s now working on the Telegu-film,Rudramadevi,a one-of-its-kind stereoscopic 3D film. “The film stars south India’s leading stars Anushka Shetty and Rana Daggubati in the lead. It’s another period film about a queen,” said the designer,who feels it is research-based work that keeps her motivated. “Fashion isn’t just about frills,and for me,a challenge of a period film is when I put all that I learnt at fashion school to use,” said Lulla,who considers her work as meditation. “And that’s why I do so much of it,” added Lulla,who would soon showcase her Kanjeevaram and Kalamkari collection. “I like blending Indian aesthetics and contemporary styling,and these two collections present the traditional fabrics in a new light,” said Lulla.

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  • Deepika Padukone Neeta lulla Rajinikanth Soundarya R Ashwin
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