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This is an archive article published on April 8, 2009

It’s a spread!

The crispness of cotton,the rustle of silk,the vibrancy of Batik,the weaves of Ikat...Indian handlooms give the term 'variety' a whole new meaning.

When it comes to Indian weaves for summer,there’s so much to choose from. Here’s a quick guide

The crispness of cotton,the rustle of silk,the vibrancy of Batik,the weaves of Ikat…Indian handlooms give the term ‘variety’ a whole new meaning. Given the country’s diversity both with cultures and even the weather,the fabrics on offer differ as well. So when an exhibition of fabrics culled from nine states of the country camps in the city,you are more than tempted to shop. Even if stocking up the wardrobe is not on your list,it’s a good time to get to know Indian weaves that come from Gujarat,Bihar,Uttar Pradesh,Tamil Nadu,Andhra Pradesh,West Bengal and more. Organised by the Krishna Paramparik Kala Hathkarga Udhyog at Lajpat Rai Bhavan,the exhibition is on till April 13.

BATIK,BENARAS,BLOCK & BHAGALPUR: The best way to get back at summer is by sporting cool cottons. Thankfully,Indian handlooms score on that count. Looking for colourful choices,then opt for Batik prints that come in a riot of colours like blue,orange,pink in interesting handmade patterns. The latest is to team it up with the Bandhej from Gujarat. Looks good as kurtas with solid coloured bottoms. Another cotton charmer is the versatile block print also known as ‘khadi’. But a true summer cooler are mul-mul blockprints,best teamed with flowing chiffon dupattas. For more formal summer evenings,we suggest you opt for lighter silks and fabrics. Bhagalpur silk from Bihar scores with its light feel and pastel shades. The suit lengths mostly come with matching dupattas and self designs are popular. But if the occasion demands a more formal (read fancy) look then nothing beats the silken spread from Benaras. The current trend has weavers spin paisleys,leaves,tikki-like designs on the fabric. As far as price points go,expect to pay as little as Rs 90 a metre to as much as Rs 250 a metre.

KANTHA & KALAMKARI: West Bengal and Kantha are synonymous. A type of embroidery craft popular in the state,it looks best on saris. Recently though contemporary changes have been made. For now you can spot multi-colour threads in use to make dupattas and kurtis. The former scores well and looks best teamed with a plain silk ensemble. Speaking of state specials,there’s Kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh. The vegetable dye block prints are best recognized with their floral patterns in muted tones. But it’s not all dull affair for the full-print fabric is teamed with bright,single tone cotton weaves. A Kalamkari outfit pairs printed dupattas and salwars with plain cotton fabrics for a Kurta.

SOUTHERN SPECIALS: POCHAMPALLI & IKAT: For those who like cotton weaves,then a Pochampalli suit from the state of Tamil Nadu is a must-have. While silk Pochampalli sarees are popular,the suit fabric,usually with no print comes with broad zari borders and matching dupattas. The colours are marvelous with the likes of sunset yellow,burnt orange,ink blue,fuchsia pinks,coffee browns to choose from. Ditto for the Ikat weave with its graphical hand-woven designs.

CHARMING CHIKANKARI: The easiest to spot,Lucknowi Chikan is world famous. But did you know that within Chikankari there are many stitches that set it apart. Do get your hands on one that flaunts aari work. As far as fabrics go,while cotton mul-mul are bestsellers,a more formal option is georgette. Though we still suggest you stick to chikan on cotton for its summer-friendly nature. Speaking of the season,chikan outfits come only in pastel,muted shades like candy pink,powder blue,lemon yellow,pearl white and lime green.

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