Furious Fashion

Busting the myth that winter-wear can’t be fashionable was Raman Vij on the third day of the Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011. The Chandigarh-based designer sent a parade of heavily-structured knit dresses,felt coats and knitted cardigans down the runway to prove that not only can an Indian designer understand knits,he can also do it with style. Drawing inspiration from Japanese warriors,Samurais and Ninjas,the collection showed Vij’s skill with knitwear and showcased a high level of detailing. Vij showed his expertise in using techniques,like flat-bed transfer knits and turtle quilted embroidery. His skill showed in the wonderful finish of the garments. The range,for men and for women,played with a combination of sombre colours such as grey,military green,and brown,with the occasional burst of playful hues like mustard yellow and red.

Ruchika Sachdeva

Androgyny is a constant inspiration for the young Delhi-based designer Ruchika Sachdeva. She addresses the question of how one can do androgyny,without necessarily coming off as masculine,and she does it in great style. Her beautiful collection of clothes — dresses,playsuits,jackets,shorts,maxis,shirts and skirts — were marked by boxy silhouettes,exaggerated accents on shoulders and hips and a play of sheer and solid fabrics. Sachdeva has worked with British designer Vivienne Westwood and the influence shows in the tilt towards vintage fashion in garments like the roomy trousers,inspired by the 1940s ‘zoot suit’ and the ‘capelets’ inspired by the cloak-coat hybrid of the Victorian era. Nevertheless,Sachdeva’s own signature was clearly visible in the more modern and streamlined appearance of the garments. Even the huge,attention-grabbing polka dots,which were popular in the 1950s,have been toned down by the designers to create tiny silicone beads.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s latest collection was a journey into the North West Frontier Province,with touches of the elegant Kathak costume. The well-choreographed show was a clear statement from the designer that he’s one of India’s rare designers who can comfortably,and beautifully,clothe any man,woman and child.

Mukherjee opened with two outfits for women that were devoid of any bright colours,save for the stars and crescent moons embroidered on the bodices. They were paired with hijabs,hinting at the comeback of conservative cuts,like long sleeves,loose bodies and high necks and backs.

But that was just the beginning. What followed was a panoramic showcase of the different styles that existed during the pre-Independence era. Cotton patialas,harems and farshi pajamas — all featured perfect cuts and geometric pleats that were paired with a variation of kurtas,vests,jackets and trenches. The ensembles were predominantly earthy in hue,with delightful surprises in vivid red,green,pink and saffron. Beautiful Kashmiri and zardozi work showed up on his khadi,organza,silk and velvet creations,with some of the Sunderban floral prints from his last collection turning up on some of the stoles and turbans.

The menswear,in fact,featured a lot more colours that were boldly paired with unconventional matches. One particular ensemble featured a pink churidar,orange kurta,purple achkan and a floral turban.