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This is an archive article published on September 27, 2011

Full Circle

It's quite ironic how Delhi-based designer Samant Chauhan’s Bihari roots have been discussed and written about extensively yet India hasn’t figured very high in his work priority list.

Globetrotter Samant Chauhan brings his debut bridal collection to India

It’s quite ironic how Delhi-based designer Samant Chauhan’s Bihari roots have been discussed and written about extensively yet India hasn’t figured very high in his work priority list. It’s not surprising since the globetrotter has had a successful international run. He won global recognition for his organic and eco-friendly designs including use of Ahimsa silk,traditionally woven in Bhagalpur. His signature label is available at premium designer stores in the US,Israel,Zurich,Moscow,Singapore and London. It seems a bit unfair to criticise him for not tapping the Indian market. This October,Chauhan returns homeward with his first ‘for-India’ wedding collection at the Wills India Fashion Week (WIFW) Spring Summer 2012. “India has been and will always be an intrinsic part of my work. The opportunities to retail overseas came early on in my career,” said Chauhan who was in Chandigarh to showcase at the multi-designer store Soh-Koh,a part of the collection that will make its way to WIFW next month.

Titled “Rajputana”,it’s Chauhan’s conscious effort to dip into the burgeoning Indian fashion retail scene and what better way to start than with wedding couture. “I feel the market has changed since the time I launched my label. People are not so keen on bling and are more receptive to my style of work which makes the most of traditional weaves and organic silk,” explained Chauhan,a NIFT alumnus who made his debut in December 2006. While western wear— dresses mostly in coarse silk—are his forte,with “Rajputana” Chauhan is looking to prove a point. “It’s my first bridal collection and I now intend on developing it as a bridal label,” he asserted.

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The “Rajputana” collection— for both women and men—boasts of rich Chanderi drapes hemmed by velvet and brocade borders with intricate though minimal use of traditional Indian embroideries like dabka ,nakshi and fine zari . “Quite like the name “Rajputana”,Rajasthan is my inspiration,its heritage,colours and architecture. But my focus is more on how the British influenced the state’s culture,” explained the designer. The silhouettes showcase a Victorian theme with corsets paired up with lehengas and kalidaar kurtas tailored like gowns. The colour palette is quintessentially Samant Chauhan,with earthy browns,rusty reds and muted golds. Rajasthani motifs on rich silk come up beautifully in the collection which thankfully keeps bling (read ornate stonework) at bay.

Excited about exploring newer markets like Chandigarh,Hyderabad and Pune where he will present “Rajputana”,Chauhan is also hard at work putting together a menswear line. “This one will be a part of the “Rajputana” label as well,” said the designer who has bikers kicking up dust in a Rajasthan desert already on his mood board. “Since I am now looking at the Indian market as well,I have put in place a

bigger design team as well,” assures Chauhan.

The “Rajputana”collection is available at Soh Koh,Sector 26,Chandigarh and is priced at Rs 25,000 onwards.

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