Extension Line

One of the few menswear designers in the city,Uttam has now added womenswear to her label,Shoolin Designs. “It’s a natural extension to my work. Also,I found women,the ones who shopped for men or accompanied them,were always asking me for a collection for themselves,” says Uttam,who has been inspired by the flapper girls of the ‘20s for her debut collection.

“The term ‘flapper’ first appeared in Great Britain after World War I and was associated with women who were asserting their independence and venturing out on their own. Their wardrobe choices included straight and loose dresses with waistline dropping to the hips,” explains Uttam. Working on this idea on her theme board,Uttam has put together a collection of dresses and tunics currently on view at her studio in Sector 19. Styled like shift dresses,the influence of jazz music of the era reflects in the collection,which has been made using imported silk and lots of shimmer (read sequins). The collection also boasts of varied animal and flora prints as well as kaftans with hand crafted fish-scale-like sequins,printed sequins,shell sequins in colours such as optic white,butterscotch yellow,gold,silver,midnight blue and black. “I will also be showcasing my collection at Vanity Fair at Whispering Willows next week,” says Uttam,who was the trend forecaster for the first edition of Grey Goose Style Du Jour held in Mumbai late last year.

Having worked with international fashion and buying apparel groups such as Triburg Apparels and Li & Fung Limited,where she designed concepts and collections for the US and European markets,the role of trend forecaster isn’t new for this alumna of NIFT Delhi. “I am now looking to take this role further,” says Uttam,who is also busy putting together a menswear collection for a New York buyer. Called “Ash Rock”,the collection of shirts made in textures and fabrics inspired by the idea of distressing. “Internationally,a worn out look is in trend. I have created new patterns through techniques such as colour bleeding and over-dye washes to create the look,” explains Uttam. The colour palette,true to its name,brings in colours such as black,navy,charcoal and some summer pastels.