In a city that is not short of breathtaking views, one of the best was offered by a bus. Visit any of Mumbai’s famous promenades to catch the many moods and hues of the Arabian Sea. Take in an unparalleled view of its green lungs, the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, and the concrete jungle beyond, by trekking up to Jambhulmal Peak. Zoom down the Bandra-Worli Sea Link to gaze upon Mumbai’s imposing skyline. But few vantage points match the front window-facing seats on the upper decks of Bombay Electric Supply and Transport’s (BEST) double decker buses. As the last of these red giants trundled off into retirement last week, their departure evoked a wave of nostalgia for the days when the double decker was the best way to experience a city on the move.
There are more efficient ways of getting around Mumbai. The suburban rail network offers greater reach and speed, while the growing Metro system promises far more comfort. Last-mile connectivity is better ensured by the numerous kaali-peeli cabs and auto rickshaws that ply across the city and its suburbs. BEST itself has been steadily replacing its older models with snazzy air-conditioned electric buses, and there are plans to build a whole fleet of double decker models, including open-deck buses for the popular Mumbai Darshan rides.
But sentiment is immune to arguments about efficiency, comfort and speed, and the end of the non-AC double decker is mourned by those who had come to view it as an integral part of Mumbai’s identity. That seat on the upper deck offered a window for contemplation, a space in which to nurse a broken heart, maybe enjoy a moment of solitude or catch a quick nap as a breeze blew through your hair. You can’t get that in a sealed-off AC bus.