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This is an archive article published on May 30, 2011
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Opinion Taking pride in India’s democracy

I first visited Kolkata in 1982 as a backpacking law student.

May 30, 2011 12:21 AM IST First published on: May 30, 2011 at 12:21 AM IST

I first visited Kolkata in 1982 as a backpacking law student. I stayed at a hostel in the Howrah slums and regretted that my camera could record only images,not the equally memorable stench.

In my visits over the next 25 years,Kolkata,and much of India,seemed little changed. China,where the national bird was jokingly said to be the crane,would be transformed every year or two,while Kolkata was the same: a decrepit city where barefoot men pulled rickshaws beside foetid canals.

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That’s why India has been a bit of an embarrassment for those of us who believe in democracy,especially when compared with China. The Communist Party in China did a much better job fighting poverty than democratically elected Indian governments. India tolerated dissent,but it also tolerated inefficiency,disease and illiteracy.

But after my trips to India and China this year,I think all that may be changing. Despite the global economic slowdown,India’s economy is now hurtling along at more than 8 per cent per year. Yep,India is now a “tiger economy.” It’s stunning to see the new high-rise towers in Kolkata,new air-conditioned shopping malls,new infrastructure projects,new businesses.

In elections this month,the longtime Communist Party government here was ousted,and the new chief minister is a woman and a dynamo,Mamata Banerjee. She’s part of a broader trend of charismatic female politicians: one-third of India’s people are now ruled by chief ministers who are women.

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The northern state of Bihar used to be even more of an embarrassment. I once visited a health clinic in Bihar where employees dumped medicines in a pit in the ground,so they wouldn’t have to dispense them. I visited villages where gangsters raped,robbed and ruled at their pleasure. Businesses fled,kidnapping became rampant,and Bihar seemed hopeless. Yet Bihar has,wondrously,turned around since 2005,when a reformer named Nitish Kumar took over as chief minister. There are still enormous inefficiencies,but crime has been suppressed,corruption has diminished and the local economy is booming at double-digit rates. And if Bihar can turn around,any Indian region can.

Look,India still lags far behind China,it faces risks of Pakistani extremism,it needs further economic reforms and it too readily accepts inefficiency as the natural order of the universe. India’s education and health system is a disgrace,especially in rural areas. But change is in the air. Infant mortality is dropping,voters are pushing for better governance,and I think India has three advantages over China in their economic rivalry.

First,India’s independent news media and grass-roots civic organisations — sectors that barely exist in China — are watchdogs against corruption and inefficiency. My hunch is that kleptocracy reached its apogee and is now waning in India,while in China it is getting worse. I’ve written scathingly about India’s human trafficking and oppression of women,but it’s also true that civil society is addressing these issues.

Second,China’s economy may be slowed by the ageing of its population,while India’s younger population will lead to a “demographic dividend” . Likewise,China already reaped the economic advantages of empowering its women,while India is just beginning to usher the female half of its population into the formal labour force.

Third,India has managed religious and ethnic tensions pretty well,aside from the disgraceful anti-Muslim pogroms in Gujarat in 2002. Perhaps as a result,India has the world’s third-largest Muslim population but few jihadis. And while India has sometimes behaved brutally in Kashmir,civil society watchdogs are pressing for better behaviour there. In China,by contrast,tensions with ethnic Tibetans and Uighurs are worsening.

China’s autocrats are extraordinarily competent,in a way that India’s democrats are not. But travelling in India these days is a heartening experience: my hunch is that the world’s largest democracy increasingly will be a source not of embarrassment but of pride.Nicholas D. Kristof

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