The tie has all but vanished from mens fashion
There was a time when a Hermes tie made a subtle statement of taste. And the tie,in general,was everywhere. On school uniforms,at the workplace; spotting one even in a nightclub wasnt that unusual. The symbolic masculinity of a tie has certainly endured in India but hardly in the fashionable sense. Its largely restricted to work-related events in conservative professions like law and banking. For the rest of us in more democratic workplaces,the tie has gone the way of the sari by becoming strictly occasion-wear. During Indias first fashion week dedicated to menswear,its clear that ties are not a priority for dapper dressing this season.
Ties are too strongly associated with office and work, says designer Ashish Soni who is presenting his collection as the grand finale for Van Heusen Menswear Fashion Week tonight. In India,we dont have such a formal dress code so we tend not to wear them. Soni has ties in his collection but hes used them as decorative accessories by tying the knot differently,altering the length and using unusual colours. Ravi Bajajs collection,appropriately titled the Dandy March,indulges the metrosexual and steers clear of anything as overtly male as ties. Designer Vijay Arora has focused on mandarin collared shirts,overlapped buttons and Mao-shaped jackets for the upcoming festive season. My shirts are heavily stylised in any case. There was no need to add ties, says Arora. He recommends combining a skinny tie with a waistcoat and a tightly-fitted shirt worn with jeans to create a sophisticated and casual look. Thats how young men are wearing the tie these days, he says.
The tie becoming redundant can be traced to the rise of our current metrosexual era where gender roles are blurred and men dont need to act male. Many more companies are promoting elastic dress codes and even formal dressing isnt so formal anymore. The new millionaires,the techies,famously have a contemptuous attitude to ties,and might have contributed to its slow demise.
According to an international report on tie sales worldwide released last year,the proportion of men in professional jobs who buy ties has dropped from 70 per cent in 1996 to less than 56 per cent today.
However,its not all over for the tie in India just yet. Satya Paul,a popular brand of contemporary saris,stocks a large variety of ties in fabrics like silk,manmade fibres and yarns. The occasional splashes of colour the ties a modern look. They are priced between Rs 795 and Rs 5,000. Its not a huge market . Weve introduced a clubbing range of ultra-slim ties in deep burgundy and cuff links to match, says Jyoti Narula,managing director of Genesis that owns the Satya Paul brand.
He believes the tie is not going away from a mans wardrobe anytime soon. Remember,day to day,a tie is the only way a man can express his mood. Women can wear a red dress,we cant wear red shirts. But we can wear red ties, says Narula. Similarly,Tikka Shatrujit Singh,advisor,Louis Vuitton emphatically states that ties can never go out of fashion. Every man wears one for a job interview and that will never change, says Singh.
At Vuitton,the tie is an important image category even if it isnt a huge contributor to the bottomline. Clients use them for gifting purposes, he says. For those who still subscribe to the old world charm of ties but want to remain fashionable,the conventional wisdom of dark suits with bright ties need not apply. The Eighties trend of skinny ties,of a two-finger width are back. However,designers warn they should never be worn with wide collared shirts. There are no hard and fast rules, says Arora who recommends trying ties with rolled up,capped,short sleeves. The conservative workplace may frown upon a skinny tie. But then,what use is fashion if it isnt a bit edgy?