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Journalism of Courage
MUNSIYARI, UTTARANCHAL
The end of the road would be a fitting description for Munsiyari. It is the most north you can go in the Kumaon by road. It is the access town for the Milam Glacier and the Nanda Devi trek8212;two of the finest treks Uttaranchal has to offer. Enroute is also Binsar, one of the finest little hamlets in the Kumaon Himalayas. Munsiyari makes it in this list for its views. And not just from the town itself. The entire drive from Almora onwards is a visual feast. On the drive up to Munsiyari from Thal there are a few waterfalls that you can stop by and take a break. Munsiyari, at an altitude of 2,290 m, is a sleepy town that seems to be overshadowed by the peaks that surround it. It is small enough to walk around and there are forest trails that you can explore. But do not go wandering after dark; there are leopards in the area. You don8217;t need to go on an arduous trek. There are trekking agents in the village who can arrange short-day treks or even camping out in the countryside. Even if you don8217;t want to go for the trek, drive down to the trek head of the Milam glacier trek and take in the views. You are sure to be inspired. A little distance ahead are hot springs that are said to be therapeutic8212;but then, it8217;s therapeutic just to be here.
Want to go?
Getting to Munsiyari means a 10-hour road trip from the nearest railhead, Kathgodam. And if you are prone to motion sickness then you8217;ll definitely be on a Vomittharon. Smart thing to do is break your journey on the way. And there is no dearth of little Himalayan hamlets to stop at. Nauchikiyatal and Binsar are two good and scenic options enroute. A good place to stay in Binsar is Mountain Resort. Phone: Ph: 05962-251011, 48.
CHANDRA TAL, HIMACHAL PRADESH
Did you ever want to kill yourself during geography class? This is a land that takes away the geekness out of geography and makes it magnificent. Spiti is stark and spectacular. Mountains that are impossibly high, roads that hug sheer drops and scenes right out of Mackenna8217;s Gold will have even make an atheist believe in a supreme presence. Chandra Tal is a highlight of this district. Called the Moon Lake, until recently it was only approachable by a seven-km trek, but today the cart track has been marginally expanded and experienced drivers can drive right up to the lake. However there is no infrastructure or friendly neighbourhood stores. You will have to carry all that you need, including a spirit of adventure.
Want to go?
The best time is summer8212;May to September. Provisions can be carried from Manali which is 130 km away. Since Chandra Tal is 4,152 mts high, it is advisable to acclimatise in between. A bus runs from Manali to Kaza which is 83 km ahead of Chandra Tal but it drops you on the track leading to Chandra Tal and then on, it8217;s a 13-km hike. Better to take your own transport, not to mention tent, sleeping bag etc. In Kaza, contact Banjara Camps and Retreats banjaracamps.com
Tourists rush to shimla or to Manali for that Himachali experience, but it the little valleys that lie between the Sutlej and the Kullu Valleys that are the essence of the real Himachal. Karsog is one such valley. Last spring I was trying to get from Narkanda to Manali via the Jalori pass. But a landslide had closed down the road. Acting on some sound advice, I went via Chindi and the Karsog Valley. By the time I got to Chindi, it was dark, but the next morning on the drive along the Karsog Valley, the full impact of the beauty of spring in Himachal hit me. Karsog has some temples that are worth visiting and if you do visit the Mamleshwar Mahadev temple then go to the fields behind it and there is another small temple set amidst the fields. It makes for a perfect Himalayan postcard picture. The Kamaksha Devi Temple is seven kilometers from Karsog along a fantastic road skirting the valley.
Want to go?
The best time to go would be the end of March and the beginning of April. Chindi and Karsog can be approached from Simla via Tattapani. You can also approach from Manali, but for this you need to get off the Manali-Mandi road at Aut. Chindi has a HPTDC property called Hotel Mamleshwar Ph: 01907-222638. Also look up hptdc.nic.in/contact.htm
SONAMARG, KASHMIR
White in winter, saturated with colour in spring and a splendid summer getaway, Sonamarg is Kashmir8217;s most understated destination. Majestic mountains, bubbling brooks and symmetrical pines make this a Himalayan epitome. My first view of Sonamarg, and also Kashmir, was from high above, riding down from the Zoji La, the mountain pass that divides Ladakh and Kashmir. Sonamarg lies in a valley at 9,000 feet, which means that in spring, or early summer, glaciers are never too far away. Pine trees, shaggy ponies and craggy shepherds all add to this hamlet8217;s rusticity. Before tourism in Kashmir declined in the early nineties, Sonamarg was the place for trekking. Today though it is still not advisable to trek in Sonamarg, a wander in the surrounding areas does give you a peep show of what it might have been like.
Want to go?
Sonamarg is 83 km east of Srinagar. It is advisable to get going from Srinagar early before the tourist hordes arrive. That way you8217;ll have Sonamarg all to yourself for some time at least. In summer, the adventurous thing to do would be to camp out in Sonamarg, but check if this is allowed and safe. Srinagar is well connected by air and road. For some adventure, take the road from Leh, but only between June and September.
BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK, MADHYA PRADESH
When you have been close enough to count its whiskers and look into its honey-coloured eyes and make out the flecks of black, then you can truly say that you have had a tiger sighting. And the odds are that you have been to Bandhavgarh. Old William Blake8217;s cat is still burning bright in this small sanctuary in central Madhya Pradesh. Because of its small size and the density of tigers within, it is not too difficult to cross paths with Sher Khan. On the road, from a jeep or atop an elephant, sightings happen all the time and Bandhavgarh never disappoints. Besides the tiger, there are other animals to sight8212;bears, wild dogs, leopards and jackals to name a few8212;and birders can see the Paradise Fly Catcher or the Palasis Fishing Eagle gliding over tree tops. Other than that, there is the Bandhavgarh Fort where the old priest is a star thanks to reruns of The Temple Tiger, the documentary shot in Bandhavgarh for Nat Geo.
Want to go?
It8217;s about 1,200 km from Mumbai and takes 21 hours to drive down. The railheads are Katni from Mumbai, which is 90 km from Bandhavgarh or Umaria from Delhi, which is 30 km from Bandhavgarh. Airports are Nagpur, Bhopal or Jabalpur, but all mean a five hour plus road journey after the flight. The park is open from October to June and the best time to go is either when it8217;s very cold January or when it8217;s very hot May or June. A good place to stay is Tiger Den tigerdenbandhavgarh.com. Call Shailendra Tiwari on 9810140441.
SWASWARA, GOKARNA, KARNATAKA
Gokarna is goa minus the neon. It has the beaches and a few shacks and it has peace. So what better setting for a state-of-the-art Spa called SwaSwara, which literally means 8216;the inner tune8217; in Kannada? The new SwaSwara resort, just off Om beach, is absolutely in tune with the peace and self-discovery that Gokarna stands for. If you8217;ve been making your millions but tearing your nerves to shreds in the bargain, then, come here for some repair and relaxation. The food is healthy and no red meat is served. Hard liquor too is frowned upon but the resort bar is well stocked with local wines. Our favourite, of course, is Sula8217;s Blush Zinfandel. You can come here and still not be a part of yoga or ayurveda. The property is big enough to wander around enchanted. And of course, Om beach is just a five-minute walk away.
Want to go?
Nearest airport is Goa8217;s Dabolim from where it is a 2.5-hour drive. By rail, the station to alight is Kumta on the Konkan Railway line. But the best way, of course, is to drive from Mumbai. It8217;s a brilliant road. Go to swaswara.com for more info.
KHIMSAR, RAJASTHAN
Rajasthan is popular for its royalty and its hospitality and where better to experience this than in a palace hotel. Mind you8212;one that doesn8217;t burn a hole in your pocket. Khimsar looks like an ordinary Rajasthani village, but it has an extraordinary fort with ancient ramparts and high-rise dining halls. Now a hotel, the luxurious fort has a long list of things you can do without leaving its premises. It houses a sprawling estate that can be explored over a day. It is quite a walk from the rooms to the dining halls which are located on the ramparts and the rooftop, but that only helps in building up your appetite for the superb fare. The bar by the pool is a cozy place for chilled out evenings and the bartender, though a local, has been immaculately trained in the art of creating splendid cocktails. Movie buffs will love the mini-cinema hall set in a soundproof, acoustically-designed room . The hotel also has a dunes village 6 km from the fort, which is operational from October to mid April. It8217;s a cosy place to stay for that rustic desert ambience
Want to go?
Khimsar is 634 km from Delhi, but the nearest railhead is Nagaur which is 40 km from Khimsar. The nearest airport is Jodhpur, 91km away. The road from Delhi is hassle free and easily doable in a long day8217;s drive. The best time to go would definitely be the winter season from November to March. Go to khimsarfort.com for more information.
ORCHHA, MADHYA PRADESH
This ancient capital is just 15 km from Jhansi, but is light years away from its hustle-bustle and commotion. Along with Mandu and Khajuraho, it forms a trinity of medieval architecture that Madhya Pradesh is immensely proud of. Curious about a shaded right turn leading off the Jhansi-Khajuraho road, I turned there and it led me straight into this fortress town seven km down that narrow road. Orchha literally stands in the middle of nowhere. Half a century ago, the Bundelas too discovered Orchha quite by accident. Standing close to the Betwa River today, a visitor gets the first glimpse of the grandeur that was Orchha. Upstream spires and towers of ancient temples and palaces dominate the skyline of the town. Orchha is a wonderful place to visit, a township that can be described as an expensive mistake which the Bundelas indulged in with splendid monuments and grand architecture only to realise later that it was in the middle of nowhere.
Want to go?
The closest town is Jhansi. It is worth clubbing Orchha with a visit to Khajuraho as it on the way to Khajuraho. Ideal time to go would be anytime but summer. After the rains is a good time as the monuments and palaces get their annual wash. Good stay option is The Bundelkhand Riverside Retreat bundelkhandriverside.com.
