Eight-fold path

A journey into lush-green countryside. A journey to eight temples of the elephant-god. A discovery of faith and peace

Finding ganesha. Not difficult at this time of the year. Life on the coast is ready to throb to the carnivalesque rhythms of the festival of abandon that the deity inspires. But near Pune, a journey to eight temples of the god, the two-day Ashtvinayak tour, is escape, discovery and peace.

The creator8217;s creator: It8217;s 7 am. A slight drizzle brushes against the windshield as we make our way to Morgaon, 65 kilometers from Pune. Monsoon clouds hover over lush green fields, careful not to send down sleets of rain. I roll down the windows and feel the spray in my face and smell the sweet wet earth. The city is far behind me, the god still far away. But Ashtavinayak has for long ceased to be a journey undertaken only by elderly pilgrims. Groups of women, families, college students and even IT professionals who have poured into Pune of late comprise a large majority of those who sign up for the two-day tour. You don8217;t need faith to be part of this journey. In front of the splendidly saffron Mayureshwar Ganpati at Morgaon from where all devouts must begin their tour, I wonder, who is this avatar? 8220;It8217;s said when Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh created the world, they had a question for nature8212;who created us? It is then that Lord Ganesha appeared like a vision before them here in Morgaon as the answer,8217;8217; says head priest Vijay Dhere. And here I was, on the path to the creator8217;s creator.

Soul feast: At Siddhatek, 99 kilometers away from Pune, and our second stopover, we are welcomed by the large expanse of the Bhima river with the Siddhivinayak temple visible on the hill across. Till six months ago, one had to take a ferry to the other side to reach the temple, but now a bridge serves vehicles, saving visitors a good three hours. We however decide to cross the river and stop by at a shanty near the bridge to devour the delicious pithla-bhakri with pickle8212;the traditional fare of rural Maharashtra8212;washed down with a chilled glass of buttermilk.nbsp;Food of my soil. Soul food.

Winding down: At the Mahaganpati temple in Ranjangaon, aartis written on gold and silver plates along the sides of the sanctum dazzle your eyes. The picturesque gardens that ring the temple are a good place to rest. It8217;s evening by the time we reach the Chintamani temple at Theur. The place is abuzz with activity. Villagers cart fresh produce from their fields nearby to sell at the temple precincts. As we drive out of the village laden with coconuts, prasad, flowers and blessings, golden rays of the setting sun bathe the place. A day has ended. Are we closer to the elephant-god?

Green gold: Day Two and we venture deeper into the countryside on our way journey to Ozar. Misty ghats, gushing waterfalls and thick forests of Junnar and Manchar open up to the sight of the awesome Giant Meterwave Radio Telescope tucked away within the fields and grape plantations ofnbsp;Narayangaon. Life here begins with the god. On the banks of the Kukadi river, Ozar is a town that nudges itself from sleep with the bells of the Vighnahar Ganpati temple every morning.

Ascent to god: It8217;s an inexorable 300-step climb up to Girijatmaj in Lenyadri, concealed in a mountainous cave, reminiscent of Ajanta in Aurangabad. Mukund Rakshe, owner of Hotel Girija, tells us how the popularity of the temple has grown to accommodate thousands of devotees every day. Rakshe relocated to the area in 1990, which he says has been a turning point in his life. 8220;I used to be a cook, today I own a hotel. And we serve every devotee who comes here-even if it8217;s 2 am,8217;8217; he says. The view from the top is breathtaking, even if you are slightly diverted by the presence of monkeys. Gasping and parched, I thank the good sense of our guide, Rajendra Nagarkar, who insisted on lugging a mineral water bottle all the way up. I spot him a few feet away, holding the chilled bottle to the mouth of a monkey. 8220;I do it every time, it8217;s a ritual,8217;8217; he smiles. I manage to smile back.

Wish-fulfillment: The Vardavinayak at Mahad, located besides the lake under which, it is said the idol was found, is famed for granting your wishes. Unsurprisingly, we are told, pilgrims spend the maximum time at this temple. The rain drenched quaint lanes that lead up to the Ballaleshwar temple at Pali, on the other hand, are lined with pickles, papads and kokum stalls that the place is known for. In the pillared sanctum, there8217;s a queue of people waiting to whisper their requests into the ear of the large mouse who then conveys them to the Lord.

Story continues below this ad

It8217;s drizzling again and we take refuge in piping hot tea and watch youngsters splash about in a pool behind the temple. As dusk settles in a strange sense of peace and equanimity pervades the place. It also seems to seep inside. In the two days that whizzed by, you have completed the coveted circuit. Or is it that the circuit has completed you?

Sunanda Mehta

Sunanda Mehta is the Resident Editor of The Indian Express in Pune. She is a distinguished journalist, columnist, and author with over three decades of experience in the media industry. Educational background: A merit-lister in her 12 th in CBSE (5th rank in Humanities) Sunanda stood first in History in the Board for which she was awarded the Dr Tarachand Gold Medal. She is a triple-graduate with a Bachelor of Arts (History Honours) from Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, Bachelor of Education, Delhi University (on scholarship) and Bachelor of Communication and Journalism, University of Pune. Professional Background Role: As Resident Editor, she oversees the Pune edition of The Indian Express, managing local news coverage, investigative features, and editorial direction for the city. Author: She is an accomplished author, known for her biographies. Her notable books include: The Extraordinary Life and Death of Sunanda Pushkar published by Pan Macmillan (2019). The book was long-listed for the Atta Galatta award for nonfiction and Auther award for best debut author. Majestic Musings - Translation of poems from 100 year old Badshaian from Punjabi to English (2023) Behind the Big Screen- the untold stories of child actors published by Bloomsbury India (2024) Focus Areas: While Sunanda has reported on various subjects from civic to political to investigative and crime, her forte remains long-form human-interest stories, heritage and gender issues. Core Column: "Against All Odds" Sunanda curates and writes a signature series titled "Against All Odds," which profiles individuals who have overcome significant personal, medical, or professional challenges. Recent notable articles (2025) The Story of Dr. Harinder Dhaliwal (July 2025): A Pune AFMC topper who became a neurologist in Canada despite becoming paraplegic. Jayoo Patwardhan’s Cancer Journey (Jan 2025): How the National Film Award-winning designer defeated cancer. Partha Iyengar’s Emergency mid-air (Aug 2025): The story of how Gartner’s India head survived a massive heart attack during a long-haul flight. Recent Notable Articles (Late 2025) Her recent reportage continues to explore deep personal narratives and Pune’s socio-environmental landscape: 1. Personal Narratives & Closure "'I grieved for him 10 years after his murder, found closure to unsolved case'" (Dec 14, 2025): A poignant feature on Vineet Alurkar, son of the late Pune music legend Suresh Alurkar, and how digitizing his father’s collection helped him heal. "A 40-day journey home: how Christopher Benninger's partner gave him the gift of memories" (Nov 23, 2025): A moving tribute to the late acclaimed architect Christopher Benninger and his final trip to the US. "'After 38 years I finally met my biological mother'" (Sept 28, 2025): Chronicling the journey of an adopted daughter from Zurich searching for her roots in Pune. 2. Civic & Heritage "'Vetal Tekdi belongs to common citizens'" (Oct 20, 2025): An interview with environmental activist Dr. Sushma Date on the community-led protection of Pune’s vital green lungs. "'Military village' Apshinge recalls living through war days" (Aug 12, 2025): A report from a village in Maharashtra where nearly every household has a member in the armed forces, focusing on their legacy and current anxieties. 3. High-Profile Commentary & Investigations "Malegaon blast acquittals: 'I was expecting this verdict'" (July 31, 2025): An interview with former special public prosecutor Rohini Salian following the controversial acquittals. "Grounded, license cancelled... she decided to soar higher" (March 30, 2025): The story of Dr. Harpreet A De Singh, Air India’s first woman pilot from 1988, and her transition to leadership and meditation. Signature Style Sunanda Mehta is known for her empathetic storytelling. Unlike standard news reporting, her features often read like narrative non-fiction, focusing on the psychological and emotional resilience of her subjects. One of her articles in The Indian Express titled 'The Quality of Mercy' was converted into a film Rubaru Roshini produced by actor Aamir Khan. She is a strong advocate for Pune's heritage and environment, frequently using her platform to amplify citizen-led movements. X (Twitter): @sunandamehta and @ExpressPune ... Read More