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Journalism of Courage
Norway and Sweden share a jocularly fraternal relationship though it is the Swedes who have the upper hand. Cracking jokes on Norwegians is a favourite Swedish national pastime, poking fun at their rugged, robust national character, much the same way we joke about our feisty Sardars. So when Patrik, my Swedish host, asked me to pack my bags for our journey to Norway, it was with excitement I gobbled my breakfast of porridge, peanut-butter toast and lemon tea. After all, it would be nice to meet people who are warm, zesty and fun.
The journey from Stragnas to the border took a couple of hours. It was typical of Scandinavian minimalism 8212; no fuss, just two national flags to show which side each country lay.
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Nidaros Cathedral, Trondheim
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The weather can be unpredictable though 8212; we had barely left Oslo when it began raining in sheets behind us. Within seconds, the hills were lost as the clouds descended on us. The shadow of the rain clouds were threatening to cover our next destination but it cleared as quickly as it came.
Within moments, the landscape emerged with even greater beauty. The spruce and birch bedecked hills swooped and plunged into the placid clear waters of pristine lakes as we sped down the road. The scenery was made picture perfect by cottages tucked into the mountains. The night halt at the Geilo pronounced Yelo ski resort came after a steep climb of seven meters after every 100 meters of gentle run. Geilo is a bustling town by Scandinavian standards, its railway station at 1200 m above sea level is more modern than New Delhi station.
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The Geiranger fjord
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The next morning we began the climbdown to Bergen, the port of call for the voyage to the Norwegian fjords. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Norway and a bustling trade centre of the Hanseatic league in the North, Bergen, surrounded by seven hills, packs the old world charm with a stylish, modern touch.
The harbour8217;s district downtown is included in the UNESCO list of world heritage sites, with its impressive wooden buildings, wide promenades and seriously idling bystanders. As we boarded MS Nordcapp, the luxury liner of for the north-bound journey, the picturesque town provided a perfect start for the most beautiful trip into the mountains-in-the-sea.
It is stunning to see these mountains surrounded by water which is free from ice. Coming from as far away as the Caribbean, the gulf stream transfers some four million cubic meters of warm water per second towards Norway giving it ice-free ports in deep fjords. It is not incidental that the breathtaking beauty of the fjords is made possible due to this warm current.
Fjords are a trademark of tourism in Norway. As our ship stood at the entrance of Geiranger fjord open only in summer, it was natural to momentarily lose one8217;s sense of dimension 8212; the huge ship suddenly looked diminutive against the looming mountains before us, rising upto 1700 meters, and allowing a passage of not more than 200 meters. The Geiranger fjord is a classic attraction for international cruise ships with its ubiquitous cottages perched atop. Must be a tax collector8217;s nightmare!
Norwegians on board joke that ladders installed for climbing are removed for repairs when the taxman comes calling.
In one of the farms tucked up in the mountains, I was told that Queen Sonja and King Harald celebrated their silver wedding with many foreign guests. It is reported the Queen took the traditional ladder-route up, but the guests preferred to their helicopter.
Then there is also the myth of a Norwegian Devdas 8212; Courtier Friaren 8212; who spent his life wooing seven sisters, alcohol in hand. A waterfall creates a picture of the bottle as it hurtles down sheer rock faces. On the far side, seven streams dance playfully down the mountain in youthful joy teasing the Friaren!
As the Coastal Express docks at numerous towns along the route, it provides a nice opportunity to see Norway8217;s mainland culture, if only for a short time. Molde is famous for its annual jazz festival and also as the place where Ibsen found his muse while vacationing. Alesund marks itself for its Art Nouveau architecture, the picturesque Brosundet harbour area is dotted with fishing boats. Central Alesund with its malls and ornate building facades is the perfect shopping district.
Trondheim, third largest city after Oslo and Bergen, was our port of disembarkation. A millennia old town it celebrated its 1000 years in 1997, it retains its old world identity along with new age energy. Bridges dating back to the 18th Century across the river Nid reveal dozens of new and old wooden buildings. And tall stands the Nidaros cathedral, the largest medieval church in the country.
The two days spent on board left so much to cherish. Every moment spent in the Geiranger fjord, Friaren8217;s pain of unrequited love, the glaciers and the waterfalls, hamlets and towns dotting the landscapes, lonely cottages and farms. And most of all8230;the presence of nature and God. Can one ask for more?
