A Syrian connection, made in Mughal, Nawabi kitchens and homes: Shami kebab is a treat for the senses

From the Mahabharata and Syria

There is no clear origin story of the shami kebab recorded in books. Kebabs, marinated meat roasted on skewers while being basted with oil and fat, have been described in Tamil and Sanskrit literature. In fact, in the Mahabharata, a picnic meal is described where “large pieces of meat were roasted on spits”.

But the kebab — husseini, seekh, tikkas and even the shami — can be traced back to the Middle East. Ibn Batuta documented how royal houses served chicken kebabs during the Sultanate period. Even then, much like now, kebabs were eaten by everyone, not just the rich. At that time, it was a common breakfast fare with parathas.

According to Sevan Nişanyan, an etymologist of the Turkish language, the word kebab is derived from the Persian word for “fry”. The word was first mentioned in a Turkish script of the Kyssa-i Yusuf in 1377. And the kebab is often credited to Turkey, where soldiers used to grill meat pieces skewered on swords in open field fires.

I don’t know the truth behind this, but I must vouch for the fact that Turkey had the most delicious kebabs and breads I have ever tasted. While I had many versions of what we consider a seekh kebab, far more tasty and softer and with a different flavour profile, there was no version of the shami kebab that I chanced upon on my multiple trips to Turkey.

 

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So why is it called shami kebab? It’s believed that the shami kebab has Syrian roots, and its name is linked to the ancient name of Syria, Bilad-al-Shaam. And the kebab, which originated from Syria, was called the shami kebab.

The other theory is that, since shami kebabs are usually eaten as an evening snack, shaam refers to the Dari and Urdu word for evening. There is another theory that I’ve heard some food historians mention, that shami kebabs originate from the village of Sham Churasi in the Hoshiarpur district of Punjab.

A perfect accompaniment

What is known is that shami kebab reached South Asia during the Mughal era, thanks to the migration of Muslims from the Middle East into the region. Many of these Muslim migrants began working in the kitchens of the landed and the nobility, blending their flavours and delicacies into the Nawabi kitchens of Lucknow.

In North India and Delhi, shami kebabs are primarily made from mutton – please don’t have chicken shami kebabs, it’s sacrilegious. The original shami kababs were made of beef. Bangladesh, in fact, has a delicious version of beef shami kebabs worth travelling to the neighbouring country for.

At my home, we make a truly fine shami kebab, prepared by my cook, who has her own spice blend. We use minced meat and as little chana or split-pea dal as necessary to help bind the meat.

The kebab — husseini, seekh, tikkas and even the shami — can be traced back to the Middle East. Ibn Batuta documented how royal houses served chicken kebabs during the Sultanate period. (Photo: Freepik)

But a traditional shami kebab is made from meat on the bone, cooked until soft and then shredded – so the kebab would have shredded meat, giving it some texture. Many people add raw green mango, and others have their own combination of spices.

This isn’t a simple kebab to make, as its flavour isn’t masked by butter, ghee, or oil like tandoor-cooked kebabs. Try to avoid shami kebabs sold in stores or shops that are ready to be fried, because they usually use way too little meat and way too much dal to bind it. The best version of these kebabs is always made at home and is the perfect accompaniment to a cold Delhi evening.

Next week, I’ll be writing about breakfasts from across India, where there’s something for everyone – from the gastronomical to the extremely simple. And in most cases, a vegan’s delight.