From Naples to New York: How pizza became a fan favourite across the world

The version of pizza we are familiar with and have grown to love — specifically the thin-crust Neapolitan variety and not the versions topped with momos offered by some fast-food chains––was created in Naples in the late 18th century. During Bourbon rule, Naples became one of Europe’s largest cities, home to a massive number of impoverished peasants. They were called the lazzaroni because their bedraggled appearance made them look like Lazarus. The lazzaroni were porters, messengers and daily labourers who needed cheap, easy-to-carry food — which explains the very spartan toppings. And voila, the pizza was born.

Alexandre Dumas mentions this version of pizza in Le Corricolo (1843), and how a two liard slice would be eaten for breakfast. A whole pizza large enough to feed a family could be bought for two sous. None of these pizzas were complicated or gourmet creations. These were topped with just garlic, lard and salt, sometimes they used caciocavallo (cheese made from horse’s milk), cecenielli (whitebait) or basil. This was when tomatoes began being used as a topping. In a way, it was still fast food, meeting the requirements of being easy to eat, quick to cook and priced very low.

But, there’s class consciousness even in the world of pizzas. Since pizzas were associated with the lazzarone or poor labourers, cookbooks in the late 19th century never included recipes for pizzas.

Margherita pizza (Photo: Freepik)

That changed dramatically when Queen Margherita of Savoy and King Umberto I visited Naples after Italian unification in 1889. The story goes that Margherita was tired of being served butter-redolent French food for all meals and asked for something simpler. The pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito whipped up three types of pizza. One was topped with lard, caciocavallo, and basil. Another with cecenielli. The third with tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. It’s the third one, which was her favourite, which was named pizza Margherita in her honour. It’s a version every child I meet seems to love. And honestly, if you get the sauce right, there are only a few toppings that are as satisfying.

It’s after this royal stamp of honour that pizza became accepted as a delicacy. Italian traders and settlers took the pizza to America when they settled in the East Coast. It was way back in 1905 that Lombardi’s––the first pizzeria––opened in New York City. There is, of course, that abomination that I ate in Chicago––the Chicago Deep Dish Pizza––which is a thick dough, has cheese at the bottom, and a massive pile of sauce and toppings.

Growing up, my mother made pizza at home using the slightly thick pre-made bases common in India 30 years ago. She topped them with homemade sauce and grated cheese before baking. We loved it. But my appreciation for pizza truly deepened after tasting authentic Italian versions. In Milan and Rome, I encountered large, thin-crust pizzas, freshly rolled and topped with a delicate tomato sauce, basil, Parma ham, and mozzarella slabs. The toppings were always minimal, as was the sauce.

The other main difference between pizza in Italy and pizza elsewhere in the world is how it’s eaten. No one in Italy picks up pizzas by hand or sandwiches two slices together. They always cut the slices into pieces with a fork and knife. And here’s my favourite pizza sauce recipe.

Pizza Sauce

Tomatoes: 1 kg, cut in half
Garlic: 200 gms, peeled
Handful of fresh herbs – basil and sage, chopped
Chili flakes: 1 tbsp
Sugar: 1 tbsp
Freshly ground pepper: 1 tbsp
Dried oregano: 1 tbsp
Onion: 2 large, chopped

You can keep this sauce in the fridge for at least 2 weeks. (Photo: Freepik)

Process

Preheat your oven to 180 degrees for 10 minutes. Then place the tomatoes and the garlic and the onion in the oven for 45 mins. The tomato skins should be slightly charred. You can cover the roasting pan with some foil after 20 mins.

Remove the pan from the oven, and peel off the skin of the tomatoes.

Then puree the tomatoes, onions and garlic together.

Heat a pan, and add some olive oil. To it add the tomato mixture, herbs and seasoning. Simmer over a low flame till the sauce thickens.

You can keep this sauce in the fridge for at least 2 weeks.

Once you’ve mastered this sauce, play around with the seasonings, add some celery stalks, different herbs, and more chili.

Next week I’ll be writing about the wonder of “double roti” and some other breads which we’ve made our own in India.