(Photos: Amit Chakravarty)
Emerald greens, Prussian blues and vibrant oranges lit up the stage in Swati Vijayvargie’s ‘Mauj’. The designer, following the upscale philosophy, used the kilim and dhurrie style of flat weaving, employed by artisans in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Uttar Pradesh. The fluid silhouettes were made using leftover threads, woven through patchwork and appliqué on silks, chanderis and khadis.
Penned to Perfection
Designer Sreejith Jeevan of Rouka, who won an award for his film at LFW last year, presented a charming collection paying an ode to the almost-obsolete culture of handwritten letters. The earthy-hued experimental line, featured flared jumpsuits, dresses with open shirts, blazers and cropped pants, furnished with motifs of stamps, letterboxes and scrawled quotes. A red and white sari, with ‘yours truly’ embroidered on the pallu summed up the minimal aesthetics of the collection.
Holy Narrative
Lush brocades, jamdanis and Banarasi silks came together in a mesmerising showcase by Ritu Kumar in ‘Varanasi Weaves’. The Padma Shri awardee, who worked with weavers in Banaras for over a year, opened with a line of white-on-white pieces. Gossamer weaves were highlighted with intricate gold threading on saris, tiered dresses and anarkalis. Worn with shimmer gold churidars, the vibrant Banarasi saris were entwined with moga threading to make them lighter. While an exquisite gold brocade layered kurta shone through, Kumar also presented Lampas weaves, made using an ancient Buddhist technique. Showstopper Aditi Rao Hydari walked on ramp in a fuchsia that, Kumar confessed, took over a year to make.
New Bride
Hyderabad-based designer Gaurang Shah sought inspiration from the love story between Prithviraj Chauhan and Samyukta, naming his collection (pictured above) after the latter. Beginning with an enthralling Kathak performance to the beats of a live band, Shah showcased luscious reds and oranges, using Kanjeevaram, Khadi, Paithani, Patola and Banarasi weaves. Barefoot models, wearing big naths and vermillion, sashayed down in anarkalis, ghagras and sarees. Zardozi, gota, chikankari and doria embroidery adorned the pieces. The designer presented an amalgamation of styles; a red lehenga paired with an angrakha-style blouse and a stunning Patola maxi skirt with a lame gold blouse and red dupatta. As the two dancers took to the stage again, twirling to the tabla, Shah took the curtain call with his models, winding down an ethereal wedding story.