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This is an archive article published on August 18, 2015

Craft canvas

As her indigenous label, Grassroot, opens in Bandra, designer Anita Dongre speaks on its philosophy, contemporising crafts, and her green lifestyle.

Anita Dongre, Grassroot, Shabana Azmi, Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, Sewa, Sewa NGO, AND, Global Desi, talk news, lifestyle fashion, indian express news Anita Dongre (left); one of her designs (right)

In a section at Anita Dongre’s sprawling, new store for her label, Grassroot, a beautiful charkha forms the centrepiece. Placed atop a table and surrounded by shelves full of linens in earthy hues, the charkha — gifted to the designer by Shabana Azmi — fits right in with the brand’s philosophy: “Revive Sustain Empower”.

Born eight years ago, when Dongre had showcased a line of eco-friendly western wear infused with vegetable dyes at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, Grassroot clothing is created using home-grown textiles and traditional techniques. “I didn’t get the time to develop it afterwards. A year ago, I started work on it again,” she says, adding that she was approached by Sewa, an NGO that helps make underprivileged women self-reliant. “They needed a designer to help with the revival process of indigenous crafts because their work was not resulting in the kind of sales they wanted. My main focus with Grassroot is not just to revive, but also contemporise the fabrics,” she adds.

Grassroot is Dongre’s latest label to get a commercial space — her eponymous label and brands AND and Global Desi are retailed through standalone as well as multi-designer stores and malls across India. The store, on Bandra’s Linking Road, reflects the brand’s theme as warli art, blocks prints and mirror work fixtures adorn the walls.

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The store is home to a mix of clothing and accessories, the latter featuring silver jewellery and hand-crafted bags in suede, canvas and jute. In keeping with the brand’s theme, the various crafts sections include block prints, clamp dyes, linens and Lucknow chikankari in muted and earthy tones of beiges, greys, pinks and blues. These are presented in contemporary silhouettes — maxi dresses, loose shirts, kurtas, boxy tops and culottes and priced upwards of Rs 7,000.

A line of box clutches incorporates miniature paintings by artists in Udaipur. For the label, Dongre explains, she’s working with artisans from Varanasi and cities in Gujarat and Rajasthan. “It’s not a structured format with a fixed design concept. We first understand their capabilities and then help them with our design acumen, to churn out pieces that would appeal to the current generation,” says the designer.

A vegan, Dongre advocates eco-friendly living. She recently shifted her design headquarters to Rabale, Navi Mumbai. “It’s an eco-intelligently designed property with facility for water recycling and natural light and ventilation,” she says. She is all set to showcase Grassroot at the Winter/Festive edition of Lakme Fashion Week later this month. She has worked with weavers in Varanasi for a line for Anita Dongre Bridal, and the weaves will also find their way in the Grassroot summer collection. A smaller, second branch will open at Altamount Road in September.


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