Muga silk from Assam has been a symbol of heritage and craftsmanship for over 600 years. But today, climate change, pesticide use, and a lack of market support threaten its existence. According to Muga silk rearers, the fabric could disappear entirely in three to four decades. To document this urgent crisis, filmmaker Jahnu Boruah collaborated with The Habitats Trust to create a short documentary that sheds light on the struggles of Muga silk artisans. In an interview with indianexpress.com, Boruah spoke about the intricate process of silk-making, the harsh realities faced by rearers, and the growing threats to this centuries-old tradition. Edited excerpts below: Q: Why did you decide to make this documentary? Jahnu Boruah: I wanted to make this documentary to promote natural fibre—since Muga silk has several health benefits—and to raise awareness about this vanishing tradition. Muga silk is over 600 years old, yet rearers believe it will completely disappear in the next three to four decades. Climate change is one of the biggest reasons for this. Muga silk moths and worms are highly sensitive to even small changes in temperature, humidity, and rainfall. These fluctuations directly affect their growth, cocoon formation, and survival. They are also severely impacted by pesticides used in tea gardens and farmlands. On top of that, there is no real market support for Muga silk rearers to continue their practice sustainably. Q: What exactly is the process of Muga silk production? Jahnu Boruah: There are six different seasons of Muga silk rearing in a year. Rearers first bring Muga silk cocoons home from other villagers. When the adult moths emerge naturally from the cocoons, male and female moths are paired for natural mating. A single female moth lays 100 to 200 eggs. Rearers then take these eggs to the Sumoni, a plantation area of Sum trees, which serve as host plants. The hatched larvae feed on fresh leaves for 20 to 30 days, depending on the season and environmental conditions. Once fully grown, the rearers collect them for cocooning. The pupation period inside the cocoon lasts 15-20 days, after which the moths emerge. The cocoons are then carefully processed to extract the golden silk fibres. Q: What are the biggest challenges Muga silk production faces due to climate change? Jahnu Boruah: Muga silkworms and moths are incredibly delicate. Any shift in temperature, unseasonal rains, or excessive humidity affects their survival. Many rearers have suffered huge losses due to unpredictable weather. Another major issue is pesticide contamination. Tea estates and farmlands near Muga silk plantations use chemical pesticides that enter the environment and kill the silkworms. Unlike commercially farmed silk, Muga silk production depends entirely on natural conditions, making it especially vulnerable to external threats. Q: What were the challenges you faced while shooting the documentary? Jahnu Boruah: Since this is a three-minute short film, I filmed only during one rearing season. While most of the process was straightforward, the biggest challenge was capturing the egg-laying process. We had to shoot at night but soon realised that Muga silk moths do not lay eggs under artificial light. Later, we found out they are highly sensitive to artificial environments. Then, we learned that they are not affected by red light. So, we used only red light to film them laying eggs. It was a bit challenging but also a fascinating discovery. Q: What kind of lives do Muga silk rearers lead? Jahnu Boruah: Most are farmers, and Muga farming plays a crucial role in their economic stability. They spend their days monitoring the silkworms at home or in the Sumoni. The work is physically demanding, but with declining profits and climate-related challenges, many are being forced to give up the practice. View this post on Instagram A post shared by The Habitats Trust (@thehabitatstrust) Q: In the documentary, you mentioned that Muga silk production requires years of experience. Can you elaborate on that? Jahnu Boruah: Yes, Muga silk rearing is not something one can learn overnight. In my observation, it takes at least five to six years to fully understand the traditional weaving techniques and the life cycle of the silk moths. The process takes 60 to 80 days per cycle, and rearers must observe the moths daily to ensure their health. Most of this knowledge is passed down through generations—usually from father to son. But with fewer young people taking up the practice, this generational transfer of knowledge is breaking down. Muga silk represents Assam’s rich cultural and ecological heritage. But climate change, pesticides, and market instability are pushing it toward extinction. This is a stark reminder that unless consumers and policymakers step in now, this golden silk may soon become a relic of the past.
