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In a unique exercise in creative cross-pollination, young designers will collaborate with master craftsmen from the Paramparik Karigar association to present a show that will be a true amalgamation of the old and the new, of craft and design.
For an industry obsessed with all things matrimonial, it’s only natural that bridal wear should hijack the agenda at yet another Winter-Festive edition of Lakme Fashion Week (LFW). Even as the fashion extravaganza, slated to be held from August 16 to 20, returns to its earlier venue at the St Regis Hotel in Mumbai and organisers IMG-Reliance roll out the red carpet, there’s no denying that the mood is distinctly band, bajaa, bridal. For a fashion event that was traditionally planned as a ready-to-wear showcase, this marks a sizeable shift in agenda. Like that of designer Nachiket Barve, who will present his first-ever bridal line “Theia” for Lakme Salon Showstopping Brides. It is inspired by Greco-Roman goddesses, yet decidedly festive in flavour and fervour. Barve says a growing demand for wedding wear from clients prompted him to make the move.
Displaying similar market savvy this season will be Amit Aggarwal with his sustainable couture collection “Monaco from the heart of Kashi”. Traditional Banarasi saris and zardozi embroidery will meet industrial pleating, latticing with polymer strips and industrial yarn to present an individualistic line. Much like Masaba Gupta, who will bring her kitschy, cool oeuvre to a bridal line inspired by Madagascar tribes and Himalayan orchards.
Also jumping on to the bridal bandwagon will be Narendra Kumar, who will present “The Marriage of Shayla Patel”, a collection that combines Art Deco influences with fusion Indian wear, along with his directorial debut, a short film inspired by the line.
Since the mood is decidedly matrimonial, also on the LFW roster are young bridal favourites such as Arpita Mehta, Ridhi Mehra, SVA by Sonam and Paras Modi, Sonaakshi Raaj and Anushree Reddy. While the designers and organisers may argue that the trousseau turn is thanks to client demands and market reality, the question remains whether one more “bridal” week will add anything to the ongoing fashion discourse. Meanwhile, here’s our pick of shows to watch out for:
THREAD WORK
In a distinct break from tradition, LFW will not hold a grand finale this season. Instead, they will end Day One with their Lakme Grand Opening Night show featuring Sanjay Garg’s “Cloud People”. Inspired by cosmetic brand Lakme’s beauty theme for the season “Liquid Gold”, Garg’s signature line will be showcased at the recently restored Royal Opera House. Known for his textile iterations and explorations, Garg will, for the first time ever, introduce chikankari and a smattering of zardozi embroidery on Bengal mul and handwoven brocade.
PLUS POINT
Ever the champion for democracy in fashion, designer Wendell Rodricks’ philosophy of inclusion will be carried forward by creative director Schulen Fernandes with the label’s latest collection “Primero”, to be presented in association with aLL: The Plus Size store. Featuring plus-size models, the label will present a line designed for big sizes. With colours ranging from vibrant brights and pristine whites to quiet neutrals, the show will seek to bust myths surrounding plus-size fashion.
WOVEN TOGETHER
In a unique exercise in creative cross-pollination, young designers will collaborate with master craftsmen from the Paramparik Karigar association to present a show that will be a true amalgamation of the old and the new, of craft and design. The #craftiscool show on Sustainable Fashion Day (August 17) will see Ajrakh specialist Sarfraz Khatri of Pracheen present a collection with Anjali Patel Mehta of Verandah and bandhani expert Sohel Khatri team up with Resham Karmchandani and Sanya Suri’s label The Pot Plant. Also working in tandem will be UNESCO-recognised bagh printer Mohammad Yusuf and Vineet Rahul, and Dabu specialist Bherulal Chhipa and label Poochki. Sreejith Jeevan of Rouka will work with the natural dye shibori fabrics from Aranya Naturals.
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