It’s wonderful to feel the cool, damp sand underfoot again as you step out onto the beach once more, a little after sunrise. The sea and sky at the moment merge pearly grey — the sun a shimmer of silvery haze behind a muslin veil of mist. As it rises, it sharpens and tinges the retreating wavelets, amber and gold. On the dark sand, a few tiny white butterfly shells gleam and now you notice something new. The ‘rangoli’ patterns of the sand-bubbler and soldier crabs seem to come in three varieties. There’s one in which the patterns are so faint you can hardly make them out — each trail of sand blobs infinitesimal. Then there are what I called the ‘standard issue’ aesthetically displayed, and finally, large clumsy-looking blobs of mud tossed out untidily. Sand bubbler and soldier crabs move swiftly across the sand, unlike the larger lobster-orange ones we see, lurking under the crevices in the rock pools. These move around, usually sideways in sinister slow motion, ducking back at the faintest vibration of your feet. I’m still trying to figure out what they are as they don’t seem to have their Aadhar cards as yet.
To check these crabs out properly you just have to settle down patiently at the edge of a pool and wait. After several moments, one breaches a rocky outcrop, like an SUV summitting a rocky abutment, and waves its cream tipped pincers at you as if wishing you ‘good morning’! Its eyes, you notice sitting on the top of its head, are like a rally car’s roof-lights. It says a quick hello and then ducks quickly back into the water. Last year, these pools and crevices were full of blue swimming crabs, but there’s not a single one of those here today. Blue has given way to red!
Inside the shells of several sea snails, the hermit crabs sit tight, one of which kept ducking back so violently you could hear it back into the rear of the shell with a clicking sound! (Ouch! They are supposed to have soft bottoms, which, to protect, is why they usurp the shells of others for their residence!) The barnacle-encrusted rocks, ever ready to lacerate you if you misstep, are festooned with what looks like splayed open oyster shells, without the pearls, of course — the nacre gleaming up you, dazzling white with tinges of sky blue. They seem stuck as firmly to the rock surface as are the barnacles.
In the tiny pools at the tops of the rock are minute plants, most rooted, and some with succulent-looking leaves, others looking like water ferns. The narrow crevices of these rocks are crammed with tiny shells – all of which seem to be firmly stuck to the rocks. And then you notice something really strange. On three or four rocks are perfectly circular holes — like those made by Lilliputian cannonballs. They look as if they’ve been drilled into the rock with a hand drill by an expert stonemason. There’s water at the bottom of these mini-wells (about two inches deep), again crowded with tiny shells.
As for birds, there are several out and about. On the sand, small parties (five or six strong) of diminutive Temminck’s stints spurt and scutter in their mincing manner, leaning earnestly forward for half a second before snapping up something invisible from the wet sand. Sometimes, they seem to stir the wet sand with their feet, but in many cases, what they pick up lies much too far away for any vibration to indicate their presence. This probably means that they are using sight to target their prey, which, to me, were completely invisible! Again, if you stand stock still, they will dart quite close to you, unmindful, and too busy with their breakfast on the beach. They are accompanied by common sandpipers, wagging their tails up and down in approval as they snap up tidbits from the sand. You can only be gob-smacked by the astonishing beak-eye coordination this must take! A pond heron arrives in a flurry and looks dourly at you: its grey-brown plumage is anything but glamorous but does help it meld with the background. It is soon joined by a partner, and then, like the star of the show, suddenly making an appearance, a snow-white, long-necked and reedy-legged reef heron lands on the highest rock. Its neck is slender as a lily stalk, its demeanour proud, legs clad in yellow high stockings. You’ve seen its ash-grey avatar on this beach before. This one now stalks along the beach with the air of nobility making its way through the riff-raff (the stints, sandpipers and pond herons!).
In the sky, terns scissor swiftly back and forth and gulls (probably black-headed) fly up and down the territories they have marked out. Occasionally, a tern would suddenly brake and side-slip and dive spectacularly to try and pick us something from the tidepools — perhaps an incautious crab. Swallows, trilling sweetly zip deftly across too, banking and jinking stylishly — and though the sky looks empty of flying bugs, they must be out there. You noticed the same thing during the rains, with dragonflies zipping to and fro across a seemingly vacant sky, assiduously patrolling their airspace.
By now, the mist has evaporated, and the sun is well up, washing the sky and sea a beautiful powder blue. You trudge back to the shack for breakfast, watching the stray and pet dogs, freaking out across the sand. A little brown and white spaniel is having the time of her life as two labrador twins watch on calmly: Been there, done that baby!